Reply With QuoteJ32A1 – 2001 – 2003 CL
J32A1 - 2000 - 2003 TL
J32A2 – 2001 – 2003 CL-S
J32A2 - 2001 – 2003 TL-S
J35A3 – 2001 – 2002 MDX
J35A4 – 2003 – 2004 PILOT
J35A4 – 2002 – 2004 ODYSSEY
CYLINDER HEAD Front 12100-P8E-306
CYLINDER HEAD Rear 12300-P8E-306
I bought a timing belt and water pump but then found in had a nearly new Gates timing belt on it so decided not to do that. I have new plugs and valve cover gaskets for it and I am going to get a new thermostat. 2 broken sensors were replaced, and all vacuum and coolant hoses will be new.Originally Posted by gabkwong
J32A1 – 2001 – 2003 CL
J32A1 - 2000 - 2003 TL
J32A2 – 2001 – 2003 CL-S
J32A2 - 2001 – 2003 TL-S
J35A3 – 2001 – 2002 MDX
J35A4 – 2003 – 2004 PILOT
J35A4 – 2002 – 2004 ODYSSEY
CYLINDER HEAD Front 12100-P8E-306
CYLINDER HEAD Rear 12300-P8E-306
Interesting.
Today started with removing the brake booster and AC lines, and then finishing the cleaning. Won't be much more action in here until I can get the paint work done.
I then turned my attention to the transmission. You need to cut a notch out for starter clearance. A template is provided with the kit to mark it.
After a little work with the cutoff wheel, it is ready for test fitting.
Today's last task was the throw out bearing bushing. Others have said it was a real pain to get on, but it slid on by hand for me. I may even go back and dimple it to add a little more friction so it doesn't ever move.
I did some more parts number comparisons and it looks like the cams, rocker arms, and intake valve springs are different part numbers, but the bare head and valves are the same. I can understand people saying the "heads" are different because of the cams/rocker arms/springs, but what I find very interesting is I have seen many a "forum expert" list the TL-S valve sizes as 36mm/30mm and the Odyssey at 35mm/30mm, but they have the same part number.
Description | 2002 Odyssey | 2002 TL-S
CAMSHAFT, FR. 14100-P8E-L00 14100-P8E-A00
CAMSHAFT, RR. 14200-P8E-L00 14200-P8E-A00
ARM ASSY., IN. ROCKER 14620-P8F-A01 14620-P8A-A01
ARM A, EX. ROCKER 14626-P8F-A00 14626-P8A-A00
ARM B, EX. ROCKER 14627-P8F-A00 14627-P8A-A00
SPRING, IN. VALVE (GRAY) (ASSOCIATED SPRING) 14761-P8E-A02 14761-PGE-A01
Last edited by Titus; 04-06-2015 at 07:44 AM.
That engine compartment looks fine to me..........
No wrenching updates right now as I wait on a few different dependencies, but I did get a new radio surround for the car in the mail today.
The old radio surround was purchased years ago when I needed a place for boost and a/f gauges. It was also stainless steel, as most everything I bought for the car back in those days was shinny.
The new one gets rid of the gauge holes that are no longer needed, and is in matte black to fit in better with the current theme of the car.
Love the clean slate approach to the engine bay.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Thanks... I keep finding things that can be eliminated. For example, I got rid of that firewall bracket that supports the brake booster hose and throttle cable (as they will both have to be relocated anyway). I am looking at going with the Capachino water bottle mod, a more attractive aftermarket radiator overflow, and eliminating as much of the unneeded wiring as possible to keep the engine bay as clean as possible.
Call Bean to help you with that!
LOLCall Bean to help you with that!
I didn't think there was anything to do this evening, but then I realized I could swap the headers...
The stock driver's side header does an OK job hugging the block, but it isn't enough to clear the steering.
(Sorry for the out of focus pic)
To give the added clearance needed, A modified OEM header is provided that has been shaved down at an angle.
Here you can see the old and new ones side by side.
With the new one on, you can see that it hugs the block a lot better.
I didn't get a pic of the passenger side, but its stock header is actually angled out away from the block. This won't do, but it turns out that the one that was removed from the drivers side works just fine on the passenger side given there is no steering to deal with.
Tonight the new oil pan was installed The first step was flip the engine upside down on the stand and to remove the old pan. I have heard some at a hard time separating the old pan from the block, but there are 2 slots made for a pry bar to fit in and it popped right off for me.
Here you can see the pan off. Notice the location of the oil pickup? That won't work with the new pan.
Before the new pan goes on, you need to remove the windage tray and stock oil pickup, and install the new pickup that comes with the kit.
This is what the inside of the new pan looks like. The pickup needs to slip into the sump, so it is good to practice before applying the liquid gasket.
The liquid gasket I used was Hondabond, as it is what Honda recommends. It calls for it to be spread thin over the mating surface of the block and it cures fast, so it was helpful to have 2 people.. one to place the bead and one to spread it thin. We were in a hurry, so no pics until the pan was in place. The front bolts under the sump are a real pain to get in.
Here is a blurry pic of the pan once torqued.
And here is a side view where you can see one of the easier to reach of the 4 front bolts.
That engine has not had frequent oil changes! That's really stained brown. A frequently maintained engine will still be silver, as the maintenance decreases, the aluminum stains, starting with a gold and then nasty brown.
While it wasn't pristine, the cylinder walls looked good and there was no sludge in the pan or up top. Regardless, it only needs to last a few years.That engine has not had frequent oil changes! That's really stained brown. A frequently maintained engine will still be silver, as the maintenance decreases, the aluminum stains, starting with a gold and then nasty brown.
There was no progress made over the weekend, as I had other commitments. Tonight I tackled the transmission adapter plate and flywheel. The adapter is first put in to position along with 2 included steel dowels. There are 4 included allen head bolts that go through the adapter plate in to engine. The holes in the adapter plate are counter-bored to allow the bolts to be flush with the adapter plate and not interfere with the transmission. There are also 2 included allen head bolts that come through flanges cast into the passenger side of the block and screw in to the adapter plate.
Adapter plate mounted and Flywheel adapter in place
There is an included flywheel adapter and bolts that moves the flywheel out from the engine to compensate for the thickness of the adapter plate. The included flywheel is a stock Honda B Series flywheel that has had the ring gear flipped to work with the starter. The start provided is designed for a 1984-1995 Honda Civic SOHC.
Flywheel and starter mounted
Cool build!!
There couldn't be a easier time than now to replace the old clutch line. I picked up one of the extended length braided stainless steel ones from Treasure Coast Miata for only $30 shipped.
Got the old one out.
And the new one is in.
I bought the same one...makes it easy to gravity bleed the clutch.
MiataRoadster has a "straight shot" braided clutch line that goes from master to slave in one piece. Even comes in multiple colors for all of your bling-bling needs.
'92
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