I think it's a month for concrete to fully cure. Wish I would have thought to paint/epoxy mine while it was an open slab.
I had the foundation poured on my new workshop last week. Before I start erecting the shop I want to paint or expoxy the floor. Any recommendations?
And how long do I need to let the concrete cure before I paint?
THanks.
Ataim
Hmm what is decent? Are we talking about your decent or my decent? I'm just curious because I don't want to offend anyone else's decent...
I think it's a month for concrete to fully cure. Wish I would have thought to paint/epoxy mine while it was an open slab.
I recommend this thread, the Garage Flooring Meta-Thread
http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=35811
Jason McDaniel
There is also a lot of good info/exampes on garagejournal.com...flooring section on their forum.
I used epoxy-coat. Held up ok so far for 5 years except for a few spots where it flaked up, not sure if it was bad prep in that area or what. Try and get something that's solid epoxy and not water based.
If you're going to do it when it's an open slab pick a day when it's not windy or you'll get debris, bugs and crap stuck in it.
VW Bug in running shoes
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The concrete will cure a little faster in this warm weather, but I'd definitely wait at least a week or two longer than the minimum. We used the OTS epoxy kit when we did the garage in our family beach house, and it's doing fine 4 years later. Applied it to a brand new slab floor, but waited till construction was complete.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Consider tile
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
http://www.garagejournal.com/
As has already been suggested..... Tile would my preference if my slab were in better condition.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
http://www.v8floorcoatings.com/system/residential.html
I used to work for a company that did concrete floors, stain, seal, overlays, garage floors, pools, etc. and these were awesome. We did a ton of epoxy floors but they all eventually got scratched up and had to be waxed to be shiny but these stay shiny forever. And, you can spill acetone or carb cleaner on them and they don't re-emulsify, and since they are flake floors its hard to tell when they are dirty. Plus they are super thick compared to other coatings so you cant just scratch them off.
The name of the place is True Custom Concrete, you can call if you have any questions, he is a super cool dude.
Last edited by Sloaner00; 08-06-2015 at 12:12 AM.
'92 Mariner Blue [1.8 swap finished!]
UTA Formula SAE -Driver/Fabricator
VW Bug in running shoes
M Porcupine sedan
M Porcupine coupe
Crusty old e46 beater
Battery Powered appliance car
I used a ppg product recommended by some folks that do floors at lockheed and it has held up well. Be sure to keep soakers going around the slab for several weeks in this heat.
The building kit get here on August the 11th. I'm going to start erecting that weekend. So I will have to wait on the floor for now (gotta cure some more). More that likely going to go with the rustoleum product. It is TCB approved and easy to use (?).
Hmm what is decent? Are we talking about your decent or my decent? I'm just curious because I don't want to offend anyone else's decent...
It's definitely not cheap but you get what you pay for. I never dealt with pricing so I'm not 100% sure what the end cost is.
It is a 2 layer bottom coat then flakes are cast and 2 more layers of clear are put on. I think it's the thickest garage coating of its type.
'92 Mariner Blue [1.8 swap finished!]
UTA Formula SAE -Driver/Fabricator