Reply With QuoteI've always run stock endlinks haven't broke any yet.
I had a '94 Miata that ripped out the sway bar mounts. They can be fixed but wasn't one of my favorite miata repair jobs so far.
I used the stock end links with an upgraded front sway bar when I first started autox. The end links came apart. My recommendation is don't do that. Besides, you want to get adjustable ones so you can balance them.
- James
I've always run stock endlinks haven't broke any yet.
I had a '94 Miata that ripped out the sway bar mounts. They can be fixed but wasn't one of my favorite miata repair jobs so far.
+1Originally Posted by POS Racing
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
See, that's what I was reading but then someone commented that it was the early year Na's and the NB with the issue and they beefed up the 95-97 mounts. Mount reinforcement is only 32 bucks
Do it.
Key factor with the new bar is to make sure it doesn't bind. I still think that is what killed the mounts on that '94.
Ordered. Just looks like two aluminum blocks. 43 shipped. Can't hurt anything. How do you check for bind?
^Keep the bushings lubed.
When in doubt. More lube - Jimmy Jan
- James
I'll have to get under there and see what needs to be done. Im sure the bushings and endlinks are. From 97 and haven't been lubed ever. Automotive lithium grease okay? The goopey stuff
^I typically use 'regular' high-temp automotive grease.
The bushings on a lot of aftermarket bars are too tall and squeeze the bar keeping them from turning. They need to be sanded down flush with the mount.
I just add a few washers between the mount and the frame. And lots of lube, of course.
Well the bar mount will now be affixed to the racing beat mount brace that is an aluminum block. I'll lube the inside of the bushing and make sure it can rotate (I'm assuming pushing down on one wheel while it's lifted will rotate the bar and show if it binding or not?) I'm feeling a little lost with the terms but I think I know what y'all are saying. There's only 4 points the bar is affixed yes? The two mounts/brackets and then the endlinks. So I'll be adding the aluminum block to brace the mounting point for the two brackets and then check the bushing and lubng it and making sure the sway bar can rotate
Check for binding before you attach the endlinks. You should be able to move it by hand without a lot of force.
Invest in greasable bushings and save yourself a lot of work later.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
I have a 97 NA8 with an open diff. I know a Torsen would put me in STR, but a VLSD would allow me to be in STL still yes?
Any LSD knocks an NA8 out of STS.
Is that why the NA6s are preferred? Because they can have a VLSD?
Correct.
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