Reply With QuoteKenny, any examples/sources of other bumpstops besides FCM?Originally Posted by general default
7mm would be the largest you could run safely.
Kenny, any examples/sources of other bumpstops besides FCM?
Thank you, David.
Last edited by 865; 10-20-2016 at 09:02 PM.
RE Suspension has some that look exactly like the FCM stops, and they are the same size (listed as 2.27 inches). They have the red (soft) and white (medium) in that size. I don't know if they are actually identical. But they are only about $1.50 less than the FCM stops when you buy them individually from GWR. Don't buy the sets of four from GWR. Those sets are priced much higher than the cost of four individual stops.
Jason McDaniel once posted some cheap alternatives in another thread.
The front is under steering because the front has less grip than the rear. The car needs weight transfer to the front entering a corner in order to "bite". It looks like the rear of the car is sitting quite a bit lower therefore making the front even lighter. Combining the rear biased rake , stiffer front roll stiffness , and previously mentioned driving style errors equals for a ton of understeer at the bus lot . I like my car much stiffer in the rear at TMS to help the front turn in, mainly via higher rear to front tire pressures .
Soften the front or stiffen rear via shocks ,bars, and tire pressures. Be more aggressive on braking in order to transfer some weight forward.
Remember your mantra Skip; slow in fast out
I think this is what I was thinking about. I don't have any bookmark pages to support the claim.
I used the FCM on the RX8 and it helped.
Skip, it looks like you got the parts to the puzzle. Now you have to get it all to work together to make it picture perfect.
The parallel thread you have going http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=623584
might give you some ideas also.
Negative rake is a huge problem in this scenario. There are other things to look at once that is corrected, but I'd wager that correcting the rake will change the car completely, as KB mentioned. I found that my NC liked about 1/2" forward rake, but it was an STR car, so that might be too much for a Street car.
Its worth mentioning that NC's are prone to understeer when compared to other Miata generations, no matter how they are setup. I found it was mainly an issue of trying to turn-in while still braking, so you want to finish straight line braking before turn in. Your situation sounds like the front wheels are lacking grip when accelerating out of corners, so a different situation.
Again, fix the rake first, as everything else will change too once that is addressed.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Getting the rake fixed does seem to be the critical first step. Wags is expecting me after I get off work, so hopefully I can get that squared away today.
You're in good hands.
Loosening and re-tightening the control arm and shock bolts with the wheels fully laden eliminated the reverse rake. There was an audible sound when one of the twisted bushings untwisted itself. The front is now about an eighth to a quarter inch lower than the rear. Thanks to Wags for that.
It eliminated the severe understeer problem. Understeer was noticeably reduced in the slaloms and in the on-throttle turns during yesterday's SCCA event. Steering felt much closer to neutral, but yesterday's course didn't have enough in the way of fast on-throttle sweepers to be conclusive. I'm going to leave the shock rebound settings alone until I get a better feel for how the car behaves during the final few events of the year. As it stands right now, it's very drivable, and handling is much improved over stock.
I am going to mount the wheel spacers that KB lent me to see if I can detect any further improvements.
Many thanks to all of you for your help.
Good news!
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
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