I see a lot of 93's out there..
90-93 have a 1.6L, 94+ have a 1.8L. The 90 and early 91s have a history of crank issues, but I know of some 90s that have gone 200k with no crank problem so don't completly rule them out.
Best year? Hmm... I've got a '91 that runs like a champ but looks like, well, used to, look like a chump.
I'd go with a '94 or '95, due to low mileage / low cost, bigger engine & more chassis bracing(which can easily be fixed in the 93s - under though). I have a 94 Black & Tan & love it. Try to get a B or C package for the Limited Slip Diff.
Ive never driven the '93 & under, but I hear theyre real fun.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Most Miataphiles feel the 1994 is the best year.
The reasons being...
1. First year of the larger 1.8
2. All the factory chassis bracing
3. Real Oil Pressure Gauge
4. Limited Slip Diff switched from Viscous to Torsen
5. Larger brakes added
6. Dual Airbags added
7. “Flash-to-pass” added to headlights
8. Gas Tank Enlarged
1995 lost the real Oil Pressure Gauge and the bi-fold visors
1996 went to OBDII which can be more problematic if going FI.
If you prefer the 1.6, a 91 1/2 on is preferred but I'd look for a 1992 for the following reasons.
1. 1992 added the trunk release in the console.
2. 1992 added the rear subframe brace although aftermarket ones are available.
3. The "toilet bowl badge" was added in 1993.
I'd drive a 1.6 and a 1.8 to see what you prefer then just look for the cleanest 1.6 or 1.8 you can find for your $$$.
I found a low mile 95 C package in REALLY good shape for 5000 and has hard top.
I also found a 96 C package with even lower miles without the top for 5k..
would it be worth it to go with the 95 with a bit more miles and get the top or get the 96 with out the top.. 95 is black the 96 is blue..
You could sell the top alone for $800-$1000 if you bought the car. How 'low' is the mileage on the cars?Originally Posted by Tool
There are a lot of 120K cars that have excellent engines and 80K cars that don't. The top is a bonus and again something you can sell. Both years are fine, no manufacturing issues. Comes down to color, condition, records, top and drive train.
Is it a local car? We can test it with a leak down and compression. Pull the oil cap and look at the cam, you want to see a clean looking metallic surface. If it looks more golden, may not had frequent oil changes. Put your finger in the opening, while it is not running of course, reach under the valve cover and get some oil on your finger. You are looking for a nice oil film and not grime or sandy feeling. The oil color should be a light brown, not a dark gold/brown look.
Drive it hard in a parking lot and listen for cracking sounds. If so, it could of warn out bushings or even worse a crack somewhere. Personally, I look for something I can repair myself, but body work is not at the top of my list. Hopefully, you are looking at cars that have not been in a wreck or if so had quality repair work.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
I just relized the 95 is really a 93 and has 120k miles and is in much much better shape then the 96 and has a hard top..
Did you drive them? That will help you a lot.
You can read on 1.6 vs 1.8 for days and days on the pointy board.
I personally love having a hard top for many different reasons; others don't.
If you think you might go FI in the future, I'd get the 1.8.
SOLD: 92 silver w/hardtop, voodoo, Kosei wheels, pine tree air freshener, and some JR stuff.
SOLD: 99 silver; the old Goodwin supercharged car with gobs of power and everything else on it.
SOLD: 95 triple black; stock
SOLD: 99 black and tan; loaded and clean; just hit 50k miles.
SOLD: 2006 Copper Mica Red; stock.
FOR SALE: 2007 Galaxy Grey Grand Touring; stock; 38k miles.
If there's nothing major wrong with it then jump on it with the hardtop. They go for $1000 used!Originally Posted by Tool
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
I thought that only 90-93's had the real oil guage.Originally Posted by black roadster
BTW the flash to pass thing can be done to 90-93's for the grand total of $0.20! if anyone wants I have several extra resistors left and takes about 1 minute to install.
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
I think 5k for a 93' with 120k miles, is a little high even with the hard top. Offer $4250Originally Posted by Tool
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
I've had all of them, from 1990 to 2000, except for a 1997, and my favorite of all was Shelby, my Laguna Blue '94 R. Second best is Sunny, '92 Sunburst, and a close third was Barbie, my first '93 LE (black w/red leather and Sensory Sound System).
I wish I hadn't sold the red interior from James Bondo, as that one will be going back on the street....one of these days......
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr )
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822 Let's go racin'
You know Merv, I don't think Stevan would part with that interior even if the price was double either. It just sits on a shelf. Maybe he should buy the car from you and put the interior back in it!
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
Sigh!Originally Posted by Sharpie
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr )
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822 Let's go racin'