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Thread: Building TCB CSP car!

  1. #21

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    OK, so I put on the test pipe and the steering wheel today.

    The test pipe is crazy loud but I've got another muffler in the mail. Glass pack I bought off of Ebay for $5 (new). That'll be welded in line, hopefully it'll quiet it down a little.

    The steering wheel is tiny and cuts off the line of sight to the guages some. Not too bad though. There is one problem though. The wheels doesn't return to center as well anymore.
    I thought this was because I tightened the 21mm nut too much so I backed it off some. It helped a little, but definitely didn't fix the problem.

    Any ideas???
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  2. #22

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
    Is there any friction between the wheel and the hub?
    Between the wheel and hub or between the hub and steering column? I guess there must be some of the latter.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  4. #24

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
    Both actually... are both moving freely?
    I guess they're not. I'm not really sure.

    I'm trying to understand what you mean b/c the wheel is bolted directly to the hub.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  6. #26

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    Well, I was thinking perhaps the back of the hub is rubbing against the plastic collar (provided you still have the thing on...) or perhaps there's some binding between the hub and the column.

    My OMP/Archer hub combo return to center pretty well on their own. This is rather puzzling...

  7. #27

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    OK I think I figured it out. The white ring with the knubs for the turn signal return mechanism is bottoming out when the wheel is bolted down.

    Did you or anybody else have a problem with this. I'm thinking about using the dremel to shorten it.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  8. #28

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    I removed mine... I just make it a point to remember when my blinker is on.

    It never bothered the wheel in any way. The bigger bother was that initially I had very little clearance between the back of the wheel and the control stalks. I then replaced the thin hub with a custom three inch Archer extension hub.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
    I removed mine... I just make it a point to remember when my blinker is on.

    It never bothered the wheel in any way. The bigger bother was that initially I had very little clearance between the back of the wheel and the control stalks. I then replaced the thin hub with a custom three inch Archer extension hub.
    OK, so I dremeled down the white blinker hub and that doesn't seem to be the problem now. It's now bearing directly against the clock spring and not on the angled portion of the steering shaft. I will probably take the clock spring out and see how it all works.

    Thanks for the help!
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  10. #30

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    I think I finally got it to work. I removed the clock spring and dremeled down the white blinker return hub even more. Everything is spinning pretty freely now, just feels really different with the tiny wheel.

    I also added 3 10ohm resistors in parallel to stop the airbag light from blinking. Worked like a charm!
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Miatamoto
    ...just feels really different with the tiny wheel.
    I love it actually...


    Is your wheel flat or what they call "deep dish"?

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
    I love it actually...


    Is your wheel flat or what they call "deep dish"?
    I'm sure I'll get used to the wheel. It's a flat wheel. I'll post a pic of everything installed soon.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Miatamoto
    I'm sure I'll get used to the wheel. It's a flat wheel.
    You'll wonder how the hell you drove it with that huge stock bus wheel before! It'll feel more like a go-kart then ever.

    Mine's a flat wheel as well. However, I'm a tall guy with long arms and had to have Bobby Archer's make a longer hub because the best angle for car control was off.

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
    You'll wonder how the hell you drove it with that huge stock bus wheel before! It'll feel more like a go-kart then ever.

    Mine's a flat wheel as well. However, I'm a tall guy with long arms and had to have Bobby Archer's make a longer hub because the best angle for car control was off.
    Doesn't seem like I need a spacer yet. Haven't driven it too much though.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  15. #35

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    Steering wheel pics!!!

    As you can see in the pics, it does cut off the view of the gauges. Haven't driven it enough yet to see it's going to bother me. As far as quality of the steering wheel and hub, the wheel wasn't bad for the money, but the hub wasn't a great fit and it made of cheap metal. It'll work though.

    Like Bean said, a 320mm wheel makes the car really feel like a go-kar!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  16. #36

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    Looks nice!
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  17. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Miatamoto
    ...but the hub wasn't a great fit and it made of cheap
    By the way, I've got the extra, smaller Bobby Archer hub adapter if you need a better made one...

  18. #38

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    channelmaniac, Thanks!

    Bean, I'll keep that in mind.
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  19. #39

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    Side notes for the buildup:

    - Looking for manual steering rack and anything else needed for the conversion
    - Will have a power antenna available soon
    - Will be removing cruise control soon
    - Looking for lightweight seats
    Thomas
    V-to-the-Dub

  20. #40
    Obnoxious at any speed altiain's Avatar
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    I've got a manual rack you can have. Just get it out of my garage. It might need a new rack and pinion (there's a little play in this one), but it'll be cheaper to buy those and rebuild it than buy a whole new rack.
    Iain

    "We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw

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