The numbers are in

[Nexus Flux]

Well, I finally got my car on the dyno for a baseline run. I took it to Intercrew and we did 4 pulls.

I got 175.26 HP and 135.29 lbs-ft at 99.89*F and 25% humidity.
The car is a stock 2006 Acura RSX Type-S with ~1450 mi. The oil is Mobil1 Exteded Performance 10W-30 with a Mobil1 M1-110 filter.

And so the modding journey begins.

[Titus]

Impressive!

[POS Racing]

Well, I finally got my car on the dyno for a baseline run. I took it to Intercrew and we did 4 pulls.

I got 175.26 HP and 135.29 lbs-ft at 99.89*F and 25% humidity.
The car is a stock 2006 Acura RSX Type-S with ~1450 mi. The oil is Mobil1 Exteded Performance 10W-30 with a Mobil1 M1-110 filter.

And so the modding journey begins.

Sounds like a great baseline.

Where does Acura come up with the advertised numbers of 201 horsepower at 7800 rpm and pulling 140-lbs.-ft. at 7000 rpm for a stock RSX?? I thought the new SAE standard was to be a more real world reading, are they (as well as other car makers) pulling some tricks to get the numbers higher??

[Nexus Flux]

Well there are driveline losses to consider. 201 is still at the crank. My 175 is at the wheels.

[Nexus Flux]

Here is a good write up on the different SAE correction factor and calculations.
Also there was no fan in front of the car, and we did all 4 pulls within about a 10 minute period.

[Adam Payrot]

Great numbers I will be doing a baseline when I get back from Florida. Should be picking it up from the body shop sometime early this week

[Adam Payrot]

Also, you already changed your oil? Acura puts an additive for break-in that should stay in for at least 2500 miles... I know it's too late, and you probably didn't hurt anything, just an FYI. I'll be somewhere around 16,000 miles when mine gets on a dyno, so it will be cool to compare numbers and see if it picks up any more power after a few more miles are put on the engine.

[Nexus Flux]

They said at the dealership to change at 3000 mi. Manual says break-in should be completed by 600 mi. I didn't want to go any further than 1500 mi on the original oil. I guess every one has their own break-in method.

PS. I got to go finish installing my Ingen CAI. I already put the Hondata IM gasket earlier today. The catch can will be for tommorow as I need a vice to make the bracket.

[altiain]

Also, you already changed your oil? Acura puts an additive for break-in that should stay in for at least 2500 miles... I know it's too late, and you probably didn't hurt anything, just an FYI. I'll be somewhere around 16,000 miles when mine gets on a dyno, so it will be cool to compare numbers and see if it picks up any more power after a few more miles are put on the engine.

News to me. I've owned a number of Hondas from new, and have never been told about any "break-in additive"... FWIW I've always changed the oil on them the first time around 1500 miles, and have never had a problem.

[Adam Payrot]

Yeah, I was told about the additive when I asked about changing the oil when I bought mine. Several people on CRSX (clubrsx.com) mention the additive for break-in as well. Maybe its something they put in the higher revving engines? Of course it could all be BS, but a lot of people insist on not changing the oil too soon (they said my 2500 was too early).

[Adam Payrot]

I got to go finish installing my Ingen CAI. I already put the Hondata IM gasket earlier today. The catch can will be for tommorow as I need a vice to make the bracket.

I am extremely torn between that intake and the Comptech. I know somebody that went from the CT to the Injen that lives close to me. My main goal is to get better mid-range torque, as I'm not too concerned with peak hp. But the Injen is over $100 cheaper and makes a ton more hp up top.

How was the IM gasket install? Did you also bypass the throttle-body coolant lines too? That's probably going to be my next purchase as I've heard it helps lessen heatsoak a lot.

Good call on a catch can too. I seem to be burning too much oil and I'd imagine that would solve a lot of it.

[Nexus Flux]

I was considering the Comptech but I didn't like how it sucks air from the bottom. The Ingen has the filter mounted in the fender under the windshield washer tank. Injen also provides a new tank that still has almost the same capacity. AEM's CAI requires that the tank be relocated to the passenger side. This involves drilling holes for the bolts and extending the hoses and wires.

I was considering a Carbing but due to price and availibility I went with a Greddy catch can. It might seem excesive on a NA but I don't want to be sucking all the oil gunk back into my IM. The original air box routes the hose into a seperate chamber and then vents the gas before the air filter. The second hose I have to look at is the actual PCV line on the passanger side of the IM next to the power steering pump.

The original IM gasket is a paper thin piece of sheet metal. Make sure you have a magnetic pickup and put in the hardest to reach bolts in first. Take it from me, I ended up taking the IM off about 3 times because when the bolts fall they either go behind the starter, power steering pump, or alternator.

I bypassed both of the lines; the TB and the other one that goes to the valve cover vent line. You know the little U shaped one. I figure the gas comming out of the valve cover is hot already and this way it may help cool the gas and condense any vapors when it reaches the catch can.

Vroom Vroom

[altiain]

Dude, isn't there a Honda fanboi site somewhere that you guys can take this chat?

[Adam Payrot]

I thought this was OTM Tech and Chat, no?

:edit: forgot the and