Clutch went, now car won't even start!!
Dang...asking for help again...two days ago, I went to start my '01 black/tan miata...started up fine, but clutch pedal depressed almost to the floor with little resistance--then I could not shift into any gear. eventually, I was able to loosen it up and it drove to work with no issues, other than little resistance on clutch pedal as noted. Happened again when I went to go home...then next morning, pedal had NO resistance and car won't start. Makes grinding noise and sputters, then stops engaging completely.
Do I need to replace the clutch? Will that even fix it? Also, have been reading about slave/master cylinder failures...how to check for this?? Finally, if clutch replacement is the answer, who recommends what?? Thanks!!
What if the hokey pokey really IS what it's all about???
for clutch replacement you're looking at about 5hrs labor, check for any fluid leaks before jumping to conclusions. Sounds like your pedal may not be engaging your clutch and thats why the car won't turn on. It would be the same as cranking the key foward without pressing on the clutch pedal...
10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....
Wouldn't a bad clutch slave cylinder cause this type of symptom? If so, that's an easy (and cheap) fix. What's the clutch master cylinder fluid level like? Has it dropped any? Squeeze the rubber boot on the slave cylinder and see if it's full of fluid.
My guess would be the slave cylinder. You can get a rebuild kit for about $5 or buy a new slave for about $45. I'm not sure if it's exactly the same on an 01', but if you jack up the passenger side you will see the slave cylinder with a little boot. Squeeze this boot, if fluid comes out you need a new slave.
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
Was it in gear when you tried to start it???Originally Posted by roadsoundlover
I agree with the other check the slave cylinder first.
I just overhauled my master and slave cylinders. It was a little grimy getting the slave off (being under the car and all), but overall, it was a pretty easy task.
I got overhaul kits from Autozone. I think the master was $18 and the slave was $5.
Another vote for a failed slave cylinder here. Typically a clutch will not fail catastrophically on a car with stock power levels. It ccertainly won't exhibit the symptoms you mentioned when it does fail.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
Great News!
Okay, guys--great news here...it WAS in fact the slave cylinder...got underneath, detected a leak, and started researching. Bought a new slave cylinder kit at O'Reilly's and installed it yesterday...took a few more pumps of the clutch pedal than anticipated, but finally got firm and everything is now Go!!! Thanks for all your input! I'll keep you posted if anything else comes up, but I'm good to go for now!
What if the hokey pokey really IS what it's all about???
WooHoo!
Good to hear you're back on the road.
RJ
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
Did you bleed the clutch? you need to, If you had to pump several times during bleeding then thats normal, if you weren't bleeding the clutch and it took several pumps then you will have some air in the lines, and will have to be a double clutcher all the time. To resolve this bleed the clutch.
'08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.
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