Reply With QuoteIIRC Alingment is not as precise without the turn plates because the adjustments are scued (SP).
I'd ask the pointies for a better answer.
Chris
Driveway alignment
I was looking at a website and was considering getting a Smart Camber gauge, Longacre Toe Gauge, and Longacre Tire Scribe. Without the turn plates it comes out to less than $400 shipped. The turn plates are another $500 plus shipping. Would I also need turn plates? Is it possible to do your own alignment fairly accurately?
IIRC Alingment is not as precise without the turn plates because the adjustments are scued (SP).
I'd ask the pointies for a better answer.
Chris
Do you think they would be too offended if I called them pointies?
Its totally possible to do your own alignment very accurately. It just takes lots of patience and time!
You can do a pretty good job with no turn plates. Just make sure you roll and bounce the car a LOT after ever adjustment and or jacking of the car.
I really don't recommend the toe gauge. I've got the most consistent and accurate results with string, jackstands, and a good dial caliper. I can consistently get the car within a few thousandths of the settings I want. The innacuracy in the wheels is greater than the error from the alignment. It's probably also Team CB approved equipment.
I wouldn't get the smart camber....I dont really like it. I much prefer the longacre bubble style caster/camber gauge. But its really a personal preference. Just get a big flat piece of stock and either cut it to fit onto the wheel, or just sit it over the tire. I've always had very good luck with it on the tire. I use a piece thats about 10"x30" and hold it on the tire, centered vertically and horizontally (long dim is horizontal). This prevents the tire deflection at the contact patch from affecting the results.
You'll have to make sure you have a perfectly flat surface. I've found that construction/carpentry levels SUCK for this. You need a machinists level and a long piece of the straightest stock you can find to get really accurate. If your garage floor is close to flat you can use 1/8 aluminum plates (or something similar) to level it. Just mark where the plates go and how many there are and setup is a snap.
I looked at the longacre bubble gauge, and was wondering how it would work on an aluminum wheel. Using the flat stock on the inside rim of the wheel is a great CB idea. Thanks. $100 saved!
Could you go into more detail about the way you measure toe?
Ok, I have to do this quick, but here goes.....
Run string between the jackstands along side the car. Make sure the string is approx level and that its pretty damn close to the axle centerlines. Measure the front and rear track. Find the difference. Now pick a number. I like to use 1". Set your string up 1" from some datum point on the front wheels (that you can also measure from on the rears). Now set up the rear so that the strings are parallel (half the difference in track added or subtracted from the rear track as the case my be). Now you've got two straight lines on each side of the car that are parallel to the vehicle centerline (assuming nothing is bent!!). Now just take measurements from the string to the lip of the wheel. This works best when you have the lip of the wheel machined so that it has very little runout. If anybody wants a datum machined on their wheels, bring them by, I'll do it for free.
This allows you to set each side of the car up independently. When you get good with it, you'll know how many turns of the adjuster = a certain measurement. You have to have a steady hand and a good eye to get good measurements but its not hard once you've done it a few times.
As always, make sure the steering wheel is straight and preferrably locked down somehow.
I know this is probably a really scatterbrained post. Let me know if it doesn't make sense and I'll add to it tomorrow when I have some time (at work!!).
Perfectly clear, I think. It is the Team CB approach to Smart Strings.
I may take you up on that.Originally Posted by EvilSpeeder
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