Looks like I'll probably be in the market for a new soft top once the weather warms up this spring/summer. Anyone have any input as far as going with one that has a glass rear window as opposed to sticking with plastic? I know glass costs more, but is there anything else I should be aware of? Any modifications I have to make? Does it zip out and fold down to clear the factory brace behind the seats? Any recommendations on what/where to buy? I'd prefer a tan canvas top to the black vinyl that my car has right now. I saw that Black Roadster had one that looked pretty damn good, but I forgot to ask about it...
Like I said, nothing urgent... just poking around for options so I can find the right thing when the time comes.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=33227
here's a good website that might
help you find what you need...
10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....
I wouild never go with the plastic rear window ever again. I love my glass rear window with defroster! Yes of course there is an isssue if you already have a roll bar but if you don't then you just have to order the correct roll bar.
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
Trickrix,
I have an OEM top off of a 2003 Miata and a Hard Dog M2 Sport. No zipping. Just drop the top. Also, since I bought a used top of a wrecked NB it was an easy bolt-in installation.
Some aftermarket tops will not work with rollbars and some rollbars will not work with glass windows. Most around here have Hard Dog rollbars. They should be able to tell you what fits with what.
If it's just the back window, you can replace just that panel for a TCB approved fix. My '96 has a very recent window, and although the top shows some wear, there are no leaks and the back window is crystal clear.
If you really need a whole top, +1 to BR suggestion to get a top & frame off a wrecked NB - it's an easy swap and the heated glass window is a nice bonus.
Craig
'96 M-edition
I bought my zipperless glass window from CabrioWorld. It was around $400. The only modification was to drill a small hold in one of the bows, to rivet a strap to. I'd also never want to go back to a plastic window. Mainly because I was so anal about doing it correctly and using a window protector, etc. Now I can pull it up and down at a stop light without leaving the seat.
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
I installed a Robbins top last summer, and have to install another when it warms up a bit, they're pretty labor intensive.
I strongly prefer the glass rear windows, no hassles, and the roll bar manufacturers list which ones cause interference with their bars.
To do list: carpet X1, seatcovers X1
97' Green M Edition
▄︻┻┳═一
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Hi, I'm new to the forum...I have a 91 and the plastic window needs replacing. The top itself is a bit on the dull side. I looked at the Robbins tops and have heard replacing a top is a bear to do. Any thoughts from the pros out there?
Should I try to do it myself or pay to have one done?
Thanks
Welcome aboard. If you can find a top off an NB (frame and all), it's a nice upgrade and very easy to do it yourself - 6 bolts, not counting if the rain rail has issues. I bought one a few years ago for around $250 IIRC. I've never replaced a top only (off the frame) myself.
Sammm, Thanks for the insite...I'll see if i can find one.
I've done the top before. You'll need a new rain rail & a rivet gun.
The best way is to go the NB top if you can.
RJ
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
Wow..Thanks for all of the feed back. Keep in kind I am new so here ya go...what does NB mean? I understand getting the complete frame and top, that sounds easy enough to do.
PC
You'll see NA, NB, and NC on here a lot... the letters refer to the different generations of Miata - here's the skinny:
NA is your Miata (90-97)
NB is the 2nd gen (99-05) - a top off an NB has a glass window, is made of better material, and is pretty much a bolt-in replacement
NC is the current one (06-present)
(I've also seen them referred to as M1, M2, and M3... but that's neither here nor there)
Hope I didn't screw that up :)
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Cool, Thanks for the lowdown. So from what I'm reading I can use NA/NB complete set up "frame/top " . If thats indeed the case, I bet its easier to find one.