Reply With QuoteFull synthetics because they hold up to the heat and stress better. That being said I prefer Royal Purple after seeing their demonstration and reading the write ups and independent testing reports.
Best oil for Turbo-Charged/ Super-Charged cars
I was curious if anyone had a specific preference to any oil for FI cars; and what their reasons would for that type of oil would be. And on the opposite end, what types of oils NOT to use and why.
Blah blah blah!
Full synthetics because they hold up to the heat and stress better. That being said I prefer Royal Purple after seeing their demonstration and reading the write ups and independent testing reports.
Yup, full syn.. I use Mobil1.
This is the best stuff and smells good too
I live where even the coyotes won't go...
+1.Originally Posted by JDMClassic
HudsonHawk needs to put that in the gas tank of his truck.
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
mmmmmm, yeah that would smell good.HudsonHawk needs to put that in the gas tank of his truck.
Just what I always wanted to be able to drive and cook at the same time
(this one is for you Tim) Shake and BAKE baby! SHAKE AND BAKE!!
Blah blah blah!
10W-30 Pennzoil. Just change it every 3K miles...
Speed
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Don't look...there's nothing down here for you!
Egads! You use Pennzoil?!The few reports I've read, Royal Purple was the best motor oil. Something else was second and Mobile 1 was third. Those 3 were in their own class of "we kick ass" oils. Castrol was one of the best dino oils. Pennzoil was among the worst for motor oils, but for some reason they make one of the best marine oils so I'm told.
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
If you've got to use a dino oil I'd suggest Castrol, but I'd recommend a full synthetic on a boosted car.
We buy Mobil1 in 50-gallon drums at work, and it's factory fill on every machine that leaves here. If it's good enough for a multi-million dollar Pit Viper, it ought to work for you.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
Reasons why I wouldn't use Dino oil in my car.
The oil journals in the turbo charger are more suceptable to coking with petrolium oil due to the high heat of the exhaust gases and compression of the air. This will lead to premature bearig wear and cause the turbocharger to need service sooner.
This I remember from College.
I personally use Amsoil when I can get it or Mobil 1 otherwise.
On non-forced induction vehicles, I have seen no difference in a car that used synthetic oil over a car that used dino oil.
05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica
i used the greddy oil until i ran out. it was neat and it was blue! but for the prices on it i will never use it again. regular synthetic works fine. pick your poison.
Mobile 1 here, for same reasons as stated above.
'08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.
Mobile 1 15W50 for me. I would never use dyno oil in a turbo car as you don't want to cook the oil that is in the turbo when you shut off the car.
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami
I use synthetic oils in my daily drivers since they don't get their oil changed but once a year, about 8K miles. On the SC forced induction and the normally aspirated Miatas that are both tracked I use Castrol 10W40 oil. Why, because I change the oil every 2000 miles. The NA gets changed early because of the hard track use.
Any FI car requires the fuel to be richer than a NA car and in turn, contaminates the oil in a shorter period of time. You will notice this by how quickly the oil gets dark after you changed it. So if you are running synthetic or mineral oil you don't need to be going long distance in between oil changes. Change it often.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
Gary, not saying your entirely wrong, but a boosted car should only run richer when under boost. My car actually runs a tad leaner than normal, until I get close to "0" vacume, then when I go into boost, it gets richer as the boost goes up.
BTW, I need one or two hours on your dyno, to do some tuning. Whats the rate, and what days of the week are good for that? I'm using a link and have a laptop with the interface. I'm having a little trouble finding the best settings for the boost controller.
Duane
'08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.
Duane,
Only under boost conditions am I speaking of enrichment, not under vacuum conditions. What it all comes down to is change your oil often, it's cheap insurance.
Also I do not have a dyno. We rent time at Intercrew in Garland.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
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