Have you checked your break lines? They are more than likely rubber and might be swelling when you pump the breaks.
Well, time to get the brakes fixed on my new (used) Integra.
When stopping, the brakes will catch if you push them down with any decent amount of pressure, but after you let up even a little, they'll sink all the way to the floor on the next push.
Also if you gently press the pedal it will sink to the floor with very little braking effect.
Yesterday I picked up a vacuum bleeder so I could bleed the brakes myself, and after a couple of tries and near-misses I managed to complete the task (clean fluid all around!). I'm proud of myself for that (you can laugh at me, I'm just not much of a mechanic... yet...). However, the brakes seem only a little better. If anything, they're a little smoother while sinking to the floor, which leads me to believe (I'm so smart) that there's another underlying problem that I'm not getting. Any ideas?
This is my new DD so any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to have it in good working order before the Miata goes out of commission for some... "special"... work
Thanks for any help. I'm sure you intelligent people will chime in.
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
Have you checked your break lines? They are more than likely rubber and might be swelling when you pump the breaks.
Blah blah blah!
If there are no fluid leaks then I'd say bad hose or bad master cyl.
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
No leaks that I can find, hoses seem to be working properly. I was afraid it would be the master cylinder, means I have to take it to the shop
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
its not hard to replace the seals in the MC and a lot cheaper than a new one.
Blah blah blah!
One question: Does the car have ABS?
If so there might be air in the module or the valves could be leaking in it.
'06 RSX Type-S NBP
Yeah it has ABS..
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
ABS or no, I say master cylinder (but Nexus has a point I hadn't thought of - is the ABS light on? can you lock the brakes up?)... a rebuilt unit from VatoZone can't cost too much. And if you're smart enough to bleed your brakes (and you have a little patience) you can put that on yourself...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Actually, it should go in the car. From your findings, it looks as if the ABS module is OK and most likely free of air. I would agree the MC is most likely the culprit.
Next questions. How did the old brake fluid look in the resivour? Were there any sparkles in it? Was it nearly black? Did you siphon the old stuff out before bleading the brakes or did you just suck it all into the system?
Sparkles/glitter in the brake fluid denotes wearing on the piston and the body of the MC. Best to get a remanufactured MC and call it a day.
Black fluid means the seals are worn as they are starting to break down. Replace seals, bench bleed the MC, and install.
It's always best to suck as much of the old fluid out of the resivour because that is the fluid with the highest concentration of moisture and other contamination. This way you don't suck it into the lines, calipers, and ABS module.
Just my 2cents.
'06 RSX Type-S NBP