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Thread: Oil Pump Seal

  1. #1

    Default Oil Pump Seal

    In order to replace the oil pump seal i had to remove the A/C compressor and its belt plus the alternator belt. Then remove ignition coils, spark plugs with wires, valve cover, timing belt, remove the alternator, disconnect radiator pipes and remove the oil pan. I've done most of this already but i'm stuck on the oil pan.

    Since there is barely any clearance i would have to hold the engine on a hoist, remove the motor mounts, and lower the crossmember so i can pull the pan and get to the oil pan... Is there an easier way to this?
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mouglie View Post
    In order to replace the oil pump seal i had to remove the A/C compressor and its belt plus the alternator belt. Then remove ignition coils, spark plugs with wires, valve cover, timing belt, remove the alternator, disconnect radiator pipes and remove the oil pan. I've done most of this already but i'm stuck on the oil pan.

    Since there is barely any clearance i would have to hold the engine on a hoist, remove the motor mounts, and lower the crossmember so i can pull the pan and get to the oil pan... Is there an easier way to this?
    There is no easy way to pull the oil pan. Some say it is a little easier to just pull the engine and do it outside of the car.

  3. #3

    Default

    I decided i'll go ahead and replace the motor mounts while i'm at it, i'll see if i can get my car up on the lift next week... If i can get some intercooler pipes for about $150 then i'll begin my turbo install... I gotta fix this darn leak...
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

  4. #4

    Default

    Which seal is leaking?

    If it's just a boogered up crank seal you can do it without dropping the oil pan. You just have to pull the timing gear off the end of the crankshaft.

    Do you have an engine hoist? CraiginTX has mine. He's done with it so if you need to borrow it you're more than welcome. I sent you a PM with more info.

    RJ
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mouglie View Post
    In order to replace the oil pump seal i had to remove the A/C compressor and its belt plus the alternator belt. Then remove ignition coils, spark plugs with wires, valve cover, timing belt, remove the alternator, disconnect radiator pipes and remove the oil pan. I've done most of this already but i'm stuck on the oil pan.

    Since there is barely any clearance i would have to hold the engine on a hoist, remove the motor mounts, and lower the crossmember so i can pull the pan and get to the oil pan... Is there an easier way to this?
    I dropped the subframe to remove the pan to when I replaced my oil pump. Then I pulled the engine to have John Day rebuild it. Both methods are a pain the

    Depends on what other work you're planning to do, but it might well be easier to pull the motor.

    Craig
    '96 M-edition

  6. #6

    Default

    well the only reason i wanted to pull the pan was to tap it for my oil return line for the turbo. I checked some auto parts places and the oil pump is dealership only.

    what all would i need for the timing belt maintnance?
    so far i got alt, PS belts, timing belt, cam + crankshaft seals,
    aluminum radiator, coolant, oil + filter...

    might be getting a new alternator since mine got soaked in oil...

    i'm still debating on the waterpump...

    gotta see Gary about the Mazdaspeed Motor mounts...
    or is it the same price at the dealership?
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

  7. #7

    Default

    Replace the idler and tensioner pulleys... and YES. Replace the water pump. The $50 to $60 you will spend is far better than ripping it all apart if it starts leaking before another 60k miles.

    RJ
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by channelmaniac View Post
    Replace the idler and tensioner pulleys... and YES. Replace the water pump. The $50 to $60 you will spend is far better than ripping it all apart if it starts leaking before another 60k miles.

    RJ
    Check HERE for your parts as well. Lots cheaper than the dealers, and he shipped my lifters very promptly. ($7 each!) That link is for 1.8L parts, but he has 1.6L stuff as well...
    '96 M-edition

  9. #9

    Default

    sweet!!! thanks, i was getting the parts at cost cause a friend of mine has an account but this site is still far better...
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

  10. #10

    Default

    now i gotta wait to receive the parts!!!
    I got the Tensioners, water pump, and main bearings...
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

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