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Thread: FMIC Installed

  1. #1

    Default FMIC Installed






    It only took 2 days to do, and alot of fab work by Brice @ Alamo. We mocked up the passenger side Saturday, then put back the stock stuff so I could drive home. Then went out there today (Sunday) and mocked up the driver's side and then installed it. It uses 2" on the DS and 2.5" on the PS.

    The PS is probably pretty typical of most FMIC installs. It just goes up between the radiator and the pulleys, straight to the throttle body. No BOV right now due to the supplied bung being steel, not aluminum. Should get that installed soon.




    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  2. #2

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    The DS took alot more tiem and fab work. We clocked the turbo, then went down thru the gap in the sub-frame and between the suspension control-arms to the IC.






    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  3. #3

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    you need to squirt that car. Glad to see you have the car running.

  4. #4

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    What PSI are you running now?
    Last edited by MiataMike; 05-21-2007 at 09:56 AM.
    Blah blah blah!

  5. #5

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    Looks great
    2005 Lava Orange MSM #601/1428
    211 rwhp, 195 ft. lbs on 1/6/07

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr brg View Post
    you need to squirt that car. Glad to see you have the car running.
    It's what I am planning. Gonna get what I can on the stock ECU, AFPR and some 1.8 injectors. Then I'll put in the 450cc injectors, MSPNP, and an EBC and see what I can get. I have a "low" limit for max whp, only 220-240whp. Not going over that. Not getting into the quest for infinite power.

    Quote Originally Posted by MiataMike View Post
    What PSI are you running now?
    7psi. Was gonna do some tuning after the FMIC got installed, but ran out of time. I will probably do it later this week. I got a Begi 2025 AFPR, which I was gona use to lean it out and see how far I can go on the 1.6 injectors without running over 90psi at the fuel rail. Might be able to run 10psi with the current setup before needing to drop in some 1.8 injectors.
    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  7. #7

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    sorry but WTF is up with welding your IC pipe to your Turbo? Anyway love the work on everything else but being aluminum I'm sure it was pricey. Congrats, looks sweet. What does Alamo charge for this..?
    10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
    Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....

  8. #8
    Obnoxious at any speed altiain's Avatar
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    Default

    +1 on Mouglie's comment. The thermal expansion in the compressor housing is going to work that weld something fierce. You also appear to have a very long run of unsupported piping between the compressor and the intercooler, which is just going to add to the stress on that weld.

    I also hope you checked the full range of suspension and wheel movememnt on both sides. The idea of running charge air piping through the suspension doesn't sit well with me.
    Iain

    "We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw

  9. #9

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    i gotta know, how much?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by altiain View Post
    +1 on Mouglie's comment. The thermal expansion in the compressor housing is going to work that weld something fierce. You also appear to have a very long run of unsupported piping between the compressor and the intercooler, which is just going to add to the stress on that weld.

    I also hope you checked the full range of suspension and wheel movememnt on both sides. The idea of running charge air piping through the suspension doesn't sit well with me.
    We installed the pipe with the suspension in full droop, and put it right below the sway bar. Not worried about upward travel, since I run 700lbs springs in the front.

    As far as the weld onto the compressor housing...
    "We just increased the efficiency of the turbo." --Brice

    Quote Originally Posted by Mouglie View Post
    sorry but WTF is up with welding your IC pipe to your Turbo? Anyway love the work on everything else but being aluminum I'm sure it was pricey. Congrats, looks sweet. What does Alamo charge for this..?
    Close to $500 in parts and welds, which I brought my own IC.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mingle View Post
    i gotta know, how much?
    Brice said he could come up with a kit if enough people are interested. He said he should be able to price it under the TDR kit ($1100).
    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  11. #11

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    as long as it doesnt involve welding my compressor housing to "increase the efficiency" i might be interested.

  12. #12
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    Looks good. I too am leary of the plumbing being so close to the action of inboard tire area. I have problems with slight rubbing at passenger side sway bar, even with coilovers and stiffer springs. Fool droop is not the issue, full lock and inclination angles of the hub while turning should be the deciding factor.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Machismo View Post
    Looks good. I too am leary of the plumbing being so close to the action of inboard tire area. I have problems with slight rubbing at passenger side sway bar, even with coilovers and stiffer springs. Fool droop is not the issue, full lock and inclination angles of the hub while turning should be the deciding factor.
    No rub issues at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mingle View Post
    as long as it doesnt involve welding my compressor housing to "increase the efficiency" i might be interested.
    Well, something else will have to be done for the attachment to the compressor housing. Can't make something non-PNP and hope to sell it now-a-days.
    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  14. #14
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    Cool. Would running the Hoosy A6's be my problem. Only does it in Autocrossing at the 1.2+ g level turns to left. Haven't check my control bushings in a while as they could be a touch on the loose side as well.

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