I've got two... but my car came from the factory that way.
It's that time of year! I'm back to the edge of overheating in stop and go traffic on the freeway, and since I've already had to turn on the heater once to bleed some heat off, I'm buying the TDR heat shield for my headers, but I'm really interested in what Oil Filter Relocation Kit's with Cooler's have been used, how easy was the instillation, and if they made a difference (every little bit helps). My radiator is only about 6 months old. I'm using distilled water and minimal amounts of antifreeze.
My old 99' My new 99'
Remember folks, street lights timed for 35 mph are also timed for 70 mph. ~Jim Samuels
I've got two... but my car came from the factory that way.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
So other than the radiator what else have you done? Have you replaced the water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap? I'd fix the overheat issue before you add the oil cooler.
As a point of reference, my '99 doesn't have any issues in the heat same with our '02.
No overheating problems with my stock '94, even with A/C. I use a 2 to 1 mix of tap water and antifreeze with about a pint of Water Wetter thrown in.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
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Stolen from some where...
The primary task of liquid cooling is to transfer heat energy from the metal parts of the engine to the radiator and then to the air. Water has a specific heat of 1.00, but the specific heat of glycol is only 0.571, meaning that a given quantity of glycol will carry away only about 57% of the heat that the same volume of water will transfer.
So....Water is a better thermal conductor than anti-freeze, but you need the anti-freeze, even in hot weather, for its anti-corrosive and lubricating properties to keep your cooling system running efficiently. If your mixture has more than 50% coolant, you're cooling ability is substantially reduced. You can even go down to about 30% in the summer to get more cooling efficiency from the added water.
Replaced the thermostat, and radiator cap with the new radiator. I'm using about 70/30, I had this same issue using 50/50. This has been a long time issue that only happens out on the freeway in stop and go. Ive been thinking about one for a while now, to help with the overall temps and extra oil in the motor. (Maybe in celebration of my 100 post, as much of a lurker as I am, that's a big deal!)
My old 99' My new 99'
Remember folks, street lights timed for 35 mph are also timed for 70 mph. ~Jim Samuels
Maybe Rogue may chime it with some things for you to look at since the overheat issue is not a normal Miata thing.
What do you consider over heating? Running 225 with the A/C in the summer is not considered overheating, this is why you have a pressurerized system. If you are having boil over from your overfill bottle in normal conditions then you have an issue. Just seeing the needle move a little is not reason to think you are in a criticle situation. Consider using the 160 F t-stat.
Go drive and quit worring.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
Troof. 30% antifreeze is perfectly okay for winter too, provided you don't let your car cool off when it's colder than 0 fahrenheit.
Last edited by Darron65; 06-19-2007 at 11:54 AM.