'Squishing' R30 batts under the decking won't help much, unless you have 10" rafters. I'd just blow in cellulose thru the whole attic.
The house is/was losing ground in the 100-degree stuff we were having. HVAC seems to be operating to the best of its abilities. Doesn't tend to lose ground till 2 pm to 3 pm and the house will creep up to a max (so far) of 82 degrees. (AC is set a 77). The weekly updates from my electric provider are showing we are spinning the meter hard!
My AC is hung in the roof joists of the attic. They put a 10' x 10' OSB deck under the AC to give service guys access to the unit.
Figured out it has R19 batts under that OSB. The builder blew cellulose insulation everywhere else that the attic is flat.
Recommended R value for an Attic is a Minimum of R30 https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm...sulation_table
My thought is to pull up the OSB decking and put some R-30 batts in and put the decking back. Then this fall blow in some more cellulose insulation over everything else since it looks like the cellulose have settled over the years.
Does this sound like a logical plan of attack?
'Squishing' R30 batts under the decking won't help much, unless you have 10" rafters. I'd just blow in cellulose thru the whole attic.
9" rafters which should work with an R30 shouldn't it?? Plan to pull the R-19 that is in place now.
They put the furnace filter in the attic along with the AC. So I have to allow for access to get that 'tupid filter.....
Last edited by POS Racing; 07-31-2017 at 02:16 PM.
I thought most attics in 1-stories are 2x8's, which is actually 7.5". R30 batts are 10 (or maybe 9.5") deep. Fiberglass works better when it's not compressed.
Just stuck my head back in the attic they measure at just over 9".
Thought I saw where Owens Corning show R30 Batts at 9-1/2" x 24" x 48". (I'll recheck that)
So I'd squish just under 1/2". Which I know is not perfect but it should be better than the R19 bats that are under the decking currently.
Tried to get a few pictures of the attic:
Agreed. Go with the R30's.
PS - is that your timeout chair?
Will your power company do an infrared scan of your house? There might be places other than the attic that could use some help.
PS Anyone on the forum able to do an IR scan?
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If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
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An energy audit may be a good plan...
So I'm going to attempt my stop gap measures I see mention of Craft Faced (Paper) and non-craft face insulation.
Where the insulation was blown in I don't see a vapor barrier but the stuff under the "Deck" is craft faced. Trying to Figure out Ft. Worth Building code is confusing at best. Not sure if I need a Vapor barrier or not...
I like the energy audit idea. Got this from the google.
http://www.oncor.com/en/pages/energy...-programs.aspx
Don't be talkin' bad 'bout hippies, man.
c581a86783713b316b1fb1fceaa1cd24--fierce-women-badass-women.jpg
Being a hippy can be fun...
Last edited by sammm; 08-02-2017 at 05:53 PM. Reason: NSFW pic deleted
I installed radiant barrier on top of my attic insulation years ago and it seemed to help a lot. Hard to verify before/after because of varying temps, but I think it is worthwhile.
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My car exceeds my driving ability. That's the only possible explanation.
How old is the AC unit? How many tons and sq feet is it servicing?
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It's the same one that has been cooling the place for 22+ years. Had it checked out and it was running within its specifications. HVAC guy also recommended insulation.
I run under Grandpa Harrison's old addige; "If it works don't f*ck with it." We know its time is near but would rather replace it in the winter when the HVAC guys need the work and have the time to do a decent installation.
You will be surprised how much more efficient the new A/C unit will be. My electric bill dropped by half with the new unit!
Gabriel