If the old one wasn't throwing codes, put it back on. Save the new one for inspections.
I've lived in Texas about 24 years and never had a car fail inspection, until last week. The stupid gas cap failed whatever test they do. I didn't even know there was a gas cap test! The guy's nice about it and all, tells me to go to Autozone and get a new cap. I get the new cap, return to complete the inspection, it passes, and I drive home with a new inspection sticker. At least it didn't cost a lot of money.
Two days later, I notice the check engine light is on. I'm like WTF (What's That For? - in case you were thinking something more profane)? So I check miata.net to figure out how to read the CEL codes (I'm new at this), and I run across this
http://www.miata.net/garage/egr.html#cap
"If you do not tighten your gas cap sufficiently, the Check Engine light may come on...."
The gas cap is tight, but this new one has a button on the top. I guess it's to relieve pressure - push down and it vents. And the fuel door cover pushes down on the button when it is closed.
So that seems to be the problem: cover pushes button, button vents pressure, CEL genie thinks gas cap is not tight, CEL turns on.
I don't want to drill a hole in the cover for the button to fit through. Do I cut off the button (it's plastic), should I just get a new OEM gas cap? Anyone got a spare?
Randy (who'd rather be )
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Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. -Groucho Marx
2005 Saab 9³ Arc 2.0L Turbo
If the old one wasn't throwing codes, put it back on. Save the new one for inspections.
Unless you threw it out... if so, then it's time for some dumpster diving!
My 1991 Ford Ranger failed inspection solely for the gas cap, but KwikLube sold me a new one on the spot which passed the truck. After inspecting my old combination lock gas cap I notice that the rubber seal was cracked from age and I replaced it with the seal from the new gas cap.
I was surprised when I had the Miata inspected a couple of weeks ago at the very same KwikLube that they did not test the gas cap at all.
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
Is that what they use that, ahem, "suction pump" for? I always thought it was for staff amusement after hours...
*sigh* Gone are the good old daze of carry-out stickers and such... oh well.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
As was mentioned above, I'd save the new cap for inspections only...
It's the same gas cap test for all cars...
Randy (who'd rather be )
- - - - -
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. -Groucho Marx
2005 Saab 9³ Arc 2.0L Turbo
Randy (who'd rather be )
- - - - -
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. -Groucho Marx
2005 Saab 9³ Arc 2.0L Turbo
Randy (who'd rather be )
- - - - -
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. -Groucho Marx
2005 Saab 9³ Arc 2.0L Turbo