Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: To torsen or not to torsen...this is the question.

  1. #1

    Default To torsen or not to torsen...this is the question.

    So I have my lovely 2004 5 speed base model...open diff.

    I was considering replacing my pos foamectomied stock seat before the next autocross I plan to attend...

    But I was just browsing for torsens, and came across some not-too-shabby prices.

    But the question is, is it worth it? To spend $500 or so, and have an off speedometer, and a bit slower acceleration....when usually, the open diff isn't a noticable problem?

    I know autox will make the open diff show its weakness more than the street - but my question is, am I even at the level of driving that a torsen would be $500 in benefit to me - more so than $300 or so on a much more comfortable seat I'll get to use daily.
    Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
    H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice

  2. #2

    Default

    Get the seat. Torsens will always be around to upgrade later.
    Smile
    93' LE #1136 - FM II
    250k miles

  3. #3

    Default

    I agree that the seat should come first, but based on my one and only ride in an open-diff'd Miata, I could not believe how badly is needed a diff exiting turns. I felt like I was in Ken O's Mini. Granted, this car has crappy tires, but it was also a 1.6 and that thing was always spinning the tires exiting turns.

  4. #4

    Default

    Torsen. Save the money and buy it at a good price.

    Like Hardtops, they can be found at a non-crack smoking price if you're not in a hurry.

    You can also do the RX7 clutch-type LSD for mad TCB points (though I think it's more recommended for road racing or drifting, OR the other way around). Either way a RX7 unit is usually cheaper than a Torsen.

    Chris
    91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.

    http://austinmiata.com/

    Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant

  5. #5

    Default

    Seat first! However, a $500 Torsen is not a bad price if you can get it from a low miles car. That was what I paid several years back for one with 30K miles on the clock.
    Gabriel

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jrj512 View Post
    I agree that the seat should come first, but based on my one and only ride in an open-diff'd Miata, I could not believe how badly is needed a diff exiting turns. I felt like I was in Ken O's Mini. Granted, this car has crappy tires, but it was also a 1.6 and that thing was always spinning the tires exiting turns.
    Was that my car?

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jrj512 View Post
    I agree that the seat should come first, but based on my one and only ride in an open-diff'd Miata, I could not believe how badly is needed a diff exiting turns. I felt like I was in Ken O's Mini. Granted, this car has crappy tires, but it was also a 1.6 and that thing was always spinning the tires exiting turns.
    The smart ass in me sez a torsen would only improve it if it spun 1 tire.

  8. #8

    Default

    You'll be much faster with a torsen and it will be much easier to drive.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  9. #9

    Default

    Are you trying to stay in a particular class for autocross?

  10. #10

    Default

    No I am not trying to stay in a particular class. Will me having coilovers on my car now make my open diff work better, or worse? I'd think better but I could be wrong.

    Still a toss up unless I find a sweet deal on a Torsen.
    Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
    H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice

  11. #11

    Default

    I don't know if it's any relevance, but I still have the ass pad I cut out of my seat when I did the foamectomy on my stock seat. It's from a 93, but still has it's resiliency. It might fill the hole, or could be trimmed to fit for the mean time. (I don't know how different the NB seats are in this regard so it might not work) Let me know if you want to try it, you can have it.
    '94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution

  12. #12

    Default

    The ass pad is semi livable on my seat, the lower back is the problem...no matter how much memory foam I throw at it or take out, it's never comfortable.

    Should have never messed with it.
    Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
    H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice

  13. #13

    Default

    As I stated in the other thread, go check and see what the dealer will charge for the factory molded piece of seat foam. As long as the upholstry was not cut off at the bottom you should be able to make it back to new. It ran me less than $90 to do the bucket seats in my Nissan back 7 years ago.
    05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmcreider View Post
    The ass pad is semi livable on my seat, the lower back is the problem...no matter how much memory foam I throw at it or take out, it's never comfortable.

    Should have never messed with it.
    Oh I have the original back piece too. It has the built in stiff lumbar pad. That's an easy swap (on NA seats anyway), might be worth it to try it.
    '94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution

Similar Threads

  1. WTT Torsen
    By Rogue in forum dfwMiata.com Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-30-2008, 07:19 PM
  2. WTB '99 Torsen etc
    By kverges in forum dfwMiata.com Classifieds
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-10-2006, 07:36 AM
  3. question on 99 and Torsen..
    By bigDstars in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-05-2005, 02:23 PM
  4. Got my Torsen!!!!!!
    By trackfiend in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-09-2005, 08:17 PM
  5. Is it a Torsen?
    By sammm in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 01-28-2005, 04:05 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •