Anyone have a lift in their garage?

[CosmosMpower]

Look into the cabinets from Ikea. I put in an 8 foot long base and wall cabinet set up on the back wall of my garage. Price for everything, including the black laminated countertop - $440. Everything fit in the MS3 as everything is flat-packed. So no delivery fees needed

I used their base white cabinets (AKURUM/ABSTRAKT) which use the same frames as all their other cabinets and they have a high quality fit/finish for the price. All the doors have the dampners so they don't slam shut which is a cool feature. They also come in a black laminate (other colors are available also) and they have an inexpensive solid wood butcher block countertop for around $60 per 8 foot section (which was backorder when I picked up my cabinets). So I have the black laminated top.

I assembled and mounted everything in a day. They have a cool track mounting system to hang the wall cabinets so its basically a one man job to install.

I'll be adding others on another wall as the budget permits but right now I have a great 8 foot long worksurface and tons of storage in the garage for a minimal outlay of $$.

That actually looks pretty good. I went to IKEA a few weeks ago and didn't notice that stuff. Is it designed for a garage or just general cabinets?

[2K Miata]

That actually looks pretty good. I went to IKEA a few weeks ago and didn't notice that stuff. Is it designed for a garage or just general cabinets?

Everyone that has seen it thinks it is really good looking and well made. Not cheap looking at all.

I bought the Akurum cabinets with the Harlig doors http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=harlig

Here is the base cabinet I bought - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39869674
And the wall unit - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S79869827

They have every conceivable cabinet you'd need (10 pages of stuff on their website).

I didn't want drawers on the base units I just got the ones with full length doors with shelves on the inside so I could store large plastic bins inside. They also have a planner you can download and it will do a 3-D rendering and a complete parts list on your computer. http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_US/rooms_i...s.html#lnk-3-2

They also have a staff of kitchen planners at the Frisco store that will work with you to figure out what you need.

[driftdevil]

Those IKEA cabinets do look good. Nice work.

[CosmosMpower]

I measured the garage at 10 feet 5 inches (by the door to enter the house), 10 feet 10 inches at the garage opening. The floor probably slopes to drain to the alley. I hope that's enough.

Also while we're on the topic. Has anyone done an epoxy coating on their floor, which ones are good?

[Radio-Active]

Don't know about the epoxy coating, but I have seen the snap in tile floors, and they look good.
I believe we used stuff at work from Sherwin Williams and it held up fairly well. Stinks to high heaven puting it on, though.
My favorite was a friend of my dad's got the cheap industrial floor tiles in black and in white and did a checker board pattern with them.

[onething]

I did the Sherwin Williams in the shop before I moved in. Pretty easy to apply, but the floor has to be perfectly clean like any other paint application. I was looking for something to make the floor easier to sweep than the rough textured concrete. All the epoxies are pretty easy to damage with jack stands or any other sharp metal. I planned to use floor tiles as a buffer under the jack stands and for shims to level the car.

I looked at the snap together floors, but I'm thinking if you have an oil spill, you'll need to take up the tile to clean the floor. Anybody have any experience with that?

[CosmosMpower]

I looked into a few options the tiles are good but about 2-3X the cost of a good epoxy kit. Race Deck quoted me $1,100 shipped to cover a standard 2 car garage.

I'm looking at U-Coat it and a few other epoxy kits. From what I've read most stuff you buy at Lowes isn't that great and peels up. Most people reccommend something a little more industrial.

[Flyin96M]

I have a four post lift in my garage with a 10' ceiling and you should have no issues stacking those two cars. Assembling and installing the lift is no big deal and can be done in a day, but you will need someone to help you. The lift is the easy part...it is the door that is a PITA. The first time I simply modified my door tracks and built my own opener. As you will be using a high lift door you will not be able to use a standard opener and when I first installed my lift nobody had a residential jack shaft opener. When I replaced my door a few years ago I upgraded to this unit http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerwe...px?modelId=834 and have not had any issues with it. You will need to take into consideration outlet locations for both the lift and the opener and I highly suggest adding a dedicated outlet for the lift.

I use my lift all the time and frankly I can't imagine not having one.

[Flyin96M]

For floor coatings I would get a quote to have it professionally done as I have not heard anything good about the kits you can buy.

[Titus]

For floor coatings I would get a quote to have it professionally done as I have not heard anything good about the kits you can buy.

+1

Lots of good info here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/f...splay.php?f=20

When you look at the cost for a high quality epoxy to be installed professionally, or the cost of materials +your time to do a high quality epoxy yourself, the tile prices look more reasonable. Also, Racedeck will give you a discount if you have an Id on Garage Journal.

[CosmosMpower]

+1

Lots of good info here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/f...splay.php?f=20

When you look at the cost for a high quality epoxy to be installed professionally, or the cost of materials +your time to do a high quality epoxy yourself, the tile prices look more reasonable. Also, Racedeck will give you a discount if you have an Id on Garage Journal.

True. From what I've read it looks like everything good is about $3-4 bucks a sq foot whether it's a good professionally installed epoxy system or Racedeck.

Any idea what the discount is for having an ID on Garage Journal? Right now they are quoting me right around $3.00 per sq foot for a pretty basic setup.

[CosmosMpower]

I have a four post lift in my garage with a 10' ceiling and you should have no issues stacking those two cars. Assembling and installing the lift is no big deal and can be done in a day, but you will need someone to help you. The lift is the easy part...it is the door that is a PITA. The first time I simply modified my door tracks and built my own opener. As you will be using a high lift door you will not be able to use a standard opener and when I first installed my lift nobody had a residential jack shaft opener. When I replaced my door a few years ago I upgraded to this unit http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerwe...px?modelId=834 and have not had any issues with it. You will need to take into consideration outlet locations for both the lift and the opener and I highly suggest adding a dedicated outlet for the lift.

I use my lift all the time and frankly I can't imagine not having one.

Do you have any pictures of your current setup? I was thinking that I could just extend the rails and mount the opener nearly at the ceiling which would take up a foot of room or so. That way I wouldn't have to buy a new opener.

[Titus]

Don't know but I read about people getting discounts pretty regularly. The owner of the company posts there and has also posted specials from time to time. I believe I have seen him list a special for $2.50 sqft.

[Flyin96M]

No photos here at work. You can't simply mount the garage door opener higher as the door will now need to go up and then back. If you try to use the one you have it will bend the door in the middle or break the opener. If you add extra panels to your garage door you could do it, but then you loose some ceiling clearance and the cost of the extra panels will be close the cost of a new opener.

You really need to use the high lift door track as well as it is made for this type of installation. Double door springs and high lift drums are also important. I built my first setup, but Overhead Door installed my current one. If I could only have the time back that it took to make it work the first time trying to save a $$.

[Kestrel]

Cosmos, I had both my floor and my cabinets professional done. I would definitely recommend my cabinet guy (www.spacesavercabinets.com). My floor turned out fantastic as well, but I wouldn't recommend the installer. He did great work, but it took him nearly 6 months to get it done!

I would really like to finish the garage off with at 4 post lift in that single bay, but unfortunately I'm pretty sure the ceiling's aren't high enough.

Garage..jpg

[CosmosMpower]

Cosmos, I had both my floor and my cabinets professional done. I would definitely recommend my cabinet guy (www.spacesavercabinets.com). My floor turned out fantastic as well, but I wouldn't recommend the installer. He did great work, but it took him nearly 6 months to get it done!

I would really like to finish the garage off with at 4 post lift in that single bay, but unfortunately I'm pretty sure the ceiling's aren't high enough.

Garage..jpg

How much did that run you if you don't mind me asking?

[Kestrel]

How much did that run you if you don't mind me asking?

IIRC, about $1,500 for the floor (my garage is an extended 3-car garage, at about 24' x 29') and $1,900 for the cabinets. It would have cost me at least $1,600 for the cabinets and countertop alone, and it was worth the extra $300 for a professional installation. I thought lowering the cabinets enough to have room for those plastic tubs on top was a smart move. Again, I'd recommend the cabinet folks, but not the flooring people (they did good work, but took too long).

I painted the garage myself, and cut in the recessed flourescent lighting as well... but I had an electrician wire the lights. The last few things I need to do are (1) put in a sink (it's already plumbed), and (2) have a window installed to let in some natural light and allow for a window air-conditioning unit. I know that small AC unit won't keep the garage 72degrees during the middle of summer, but I think it should be able to cool it to the low-to-mid 80's... and make it bearable!

[Kestrel]

Oh, and I just saw this (http://www.qualitylifts.com/auto-lift-equipment-installation/auto-lift-equipment-specials;jsessionid=0a0101431f431b942bbb757c4fd4a3 55b846e1440d61.e3eTax4KaN0Le34Pa38Ta38Rc3v0) on the "Cayman Board". No affiliation or anything, but there are lots of posts on that board about four post lifts...

[Radio-Active]

(2) have a window installed to let in some natural light and allow for a window air-conditioning unit. I know that small AC unit won't keep the garage 72degrees during the middle of summer, but I think it should be able to cool it to the low-to-mid 80's... and make it bearable!

They make 'window units' all the way up to a 3 ton size(36,000 btu) by Fredrick, but I would recommend getting a package unit by Goodman or a ductless AC unit to cool the garage. If your garage door is not an insulated type. I would go to Home Depot and buy the R-Factor 3/4" raidiant barier insulation foam.

[Radio-Active]

If anyone is interested in climatizing their garage, I just talked to the guy in the hanger next door to my dads hanger and he has a used 3 ton package unit for sale for $400. I believe it has the heat strip in it as well. PM me for the guys info if anyone is interested.