Reply With Quote1. that is a capacitor.
2. with a special tester
3. Mouser.com (7uF [micro-farad] 250v), but it looks like it might be AC, and I'm not familiar with AC circuits.
Any EEs?
This is on my circulating pump on my hot water system. Testing continuity everything seems to work but this.
1. What is it?
2. How do I test it?
3. Where can I find a replacement?
M3 is always the answer.
1. that is a capacitor.
2. with a special tester
3. Mouser.com (7uF [micro-farad] 250v), but it looks like it might be AC, and I'm not familiar with AC circuits.
Can't help you much on 1 or 2, but I'd go to Altex to see about all 3...
http://www.altex.com/
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
a capacitor will to NOT have continuity... (sorry mistyped)
Thanks. That helps a ton. Turns out the impeller was gunked up. Cleaned it and got ti spinning again.
M3 is always the answer.
For future reference, Grainger is also a good place to find caps for motors. I bought a $10 cap at Grainger to fix my pool pump. The other options for that fix (i.e., not DIY) would have been many hundreds of dollars.
Quit trimming your bush in the shower.Originally Posted by ken o
Maybe Mrs. Ken O needs to repost a notice similar to this one in Ken O's shower......
Posting Permissions
