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Thread: How to spread the cost of a good FI setup out

  1. #1

    Default How to spread the cost of a good FI setup out

    The more I read up on FI the more expensive this stuff gets. From what I can tell, if my goal is to have 200-220 whp and reliability for track days I'd need to spend $6-7k. That would include ecu and new radiator.

    To spread things out and to have a little fun tinkering, would it make any sense to buy the ecu first and do an NA tune? With I/h/e I could get at least 130-140 whp right? Or is that wishful thinking? 949s franken engine does 160+ with 01 bottom end and intake cam swap... Then later when the next block of funds arrives jump into SC/turbo/rotrex... Or would it make more sense to start with basic boost and add new ecu later?
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  2. #2
    Driver BigDmiata's Avatar
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    Start with the ECU, then go on to cooling, then your choice of FI. Since I know you intend to track the set up I would consider clutch/flywheel also before FI. You could build a nice NA map to work with existing mods until you get the money for the rest of the upgrades. But what do I know I'm driving a MSM with the stock ECU. :)
    2013 Mazda2 slushbox daily
    1993 Miata (future exocet donor)

  3. #3

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    The PO put in an Exedy Organic clutch. Goodwin says it's supposed to be good up to 8 psi...
    SOLD - '91 BRG
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  4. #4
    Driver BigDmiata's Avatar
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    If you already have the clutch, then I'd start deciding what engine management you plan on running (Xede, Hydra, MSPNP, Adaptronic, etc). Keep in mind that since you have an NB in Dallas county that most engine management choices do not return OBD2 codes when it comes time to do emissions/inspection. In the case of the MSM, we have to uninstall the engine management and drop back to stock injectors and let the ECU reset for emissions testing.
    2013 Mazda2 slushbox daily
    1993 Miata (future exocet donor)

  5. #5

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    That's an interesting point about emissions testing... when you say "most do not..." -> which options do? I'll have to read up on this...
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  6. #6
    Driver BigDmiata's Avatar
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    Actually, come to think of it, none pass the OBD2 information on. A good place to look up info on boosted miatas is http://miataturbo.net. Just be aware that the site isn't for the faint of heart, but you can get alot of good info in regards to FI miatas.
    2013 Mazda2 slushbox daily
    1993 Miata (future exocet donor)

  7. #7

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    So the only way around this issue is to use the Powercard? Is that right?
    SOLD - '91 BRG
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  8. #8
    Driver BigDmiata's Avatar
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    Yeah, that or FM has thevoodoo box Same concept, fool the system to give you more fuel. Neither is as good as a full standalone, or even a piggyback ecu.
    2013 Mazda2 slushbox daily
    1993 Miata (future exocet donor)

  9. #9

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    Or install a full ECU in parallel with the stock ECU. As long as you keep the MAF and O2 sensors, then the stock computer won't know any better. It's not all that hard and you still have full control of the car just like it was a full standalone. Best option IMO.

  10. #10

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    Another route is to go with an FM Voodoo or Voodoo II to start and get boosted now, then add an ECU and injectors later to turn it up. You could go back to the Voodoo box every year or so to pass inspection. That way, you get to enjoy FI now, not later. You'll get some gains with an ECU while you are NA, but nothing like you'll get with the first step to boost.

    BTW, an option on inspection is to forget. My buddy pointed out to me yesterday that my inspection sticker expired -- in August of 2010!

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonieGT View Post
    The PO put in an Exedy Organic clutch. Goodwin says it's supposed to be good up to 8 psi...
    8psi on what compressor?
    Quote Originally Posted by MoonieGT View Post
    That's an interesting point about emissions testing... when you say "most do not..." -> which options do? I'll have to read up on this...
    MSII in parallel following one of the wire-by-wire walk throughs on maitaturbo. Or, pay someone to build the harness for you so it's plug-n-play.

    Come have a look at my car sometime. You're going to double the VE of the engine, so everything must be completely reconsidered if you're going to track it.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  12. #12

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    6-7 to put FI on a Miata? That sounds high. What about buying a used kit off of someone's car and then buying a few pieces new? Seems like 3-4K should easily cover it unless you want a fancy setup with custom parts etc.
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  13. #13

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    My 6-7k estimate includes radiator, intercooler, injectors, coolant reroute, new ecu.

    For SC: $3,000 for the MP62, another $700-1400 for ECU depending on what you get, $450 radiator, $2-300 for better fans?, $200 for coolant reroute, $1,100 for TDR IC, $400 for injectors, $400 for header, $200 for midpipe, $300 exhaust. Not even including an upgraded clutch (hoping mine will do...) that's $6900-7600 depending on ECU. There is probably some things I've left off that I would need...

    Rotrex would be on par with SC (kit is $300 more), and turbo might be slightly more? Buying used could cut some costs as well.
    SOLD - '91 BRG
    SOLD -'99 Signal Green
    Looking for my next car...

  14. #14

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    Looks like all of your costs listed are for new items. Do you have any issues with used bits?

    A used MegaSquirt will cut the cost in half in many cases. One of the mods on miataturbo.net builds these things (or I think he still does) for a very low price point. The Adaptronic 420 is being superceded by another model, so you will likely see some of those popping up for decent $. Again, I'll point to mt.net, where an Adaptronic is being sold with some RC 550 injectors. Didn't check the asking price.
    You can get some very decent RX7 460cc injectors for a whopping $100-150 that don't require any harness hacking.
    Go for the budget '01+ tubular manifold or a used header to cut that cost a lot (or stick with what you have, maybe?).
    Someone on miataturbo just sold an MP62 for about $750.
    Read up about folks who have used old Taurus fans. Apparently they flow huge amounts of air. Not sure how this would affect A/C if at all.

    There is much saving to be done, here, if you don't absolutely NEED the pretty, new parts.
    '90 "LE" available for purchase soon
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  15. #15

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    I don't need new parts per se, but I don't want to have to replace and mend them. If I can find reliable secondhand parts then bring on the savings. This is all for the future. As I just ordered coilovers my miata budget is nonexistent and will be for some time...
    SOLD - '91 BRG
    SOLD -'99 Signal Green
    Looking for my next car...

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonieGT View Post
    My 6-7k estimate includes radiator, intercooler, injectors, coolant reroute, new ecu.

    For SC: $3,000 for the MP62, another $700-1400 for ECU depending on what you get, $450 radiator, $2-300 for better fans?, $200 for coolant reroute, $1,100 for TDR IC, $400 for injectors, $400 for header, $200 for midpipe, $300 exhaust. Not even including an upgraded clutch (hoping mine will do...) that's $6900-7600 depending on ECU. There is probably some things I've left off that I would need...

    Rotrex would be on par with SC (kit is $300 more), and turbo might be slightly more? Buying used could cut some costs as well.
    Wow, a new s/c kit (Using a MP62) for a Lotus is cheaper than a Miata?!?
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  17. #17

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    Well, if you're interested in decent used parts, I'd definitely point you toward the classifieds in miataturbo. Just keep your eyes peeled, as good deals do show up with some regularity.

    There are also some group buys and introductory prices here & there that can kick some of your investment costs down.
    '90 "LE" available for purchase soon
    2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonieGT View Post
    My 6-7k estimate includes radiator, intercooler, injectors, coolant reroute, new ecu.

    For SC: $3,000 for the MP62, another $700-1400 for ECU depending on what you get, $450 radiator, $2-300 for better fans?, $200 for coolant reroute, $1,100 for TDR IC, $400 for injectors, $400 for header, $200 for midpipe, $300 exhaust. Not even including an upgraded clutch (hoping mine will do...) that's $6900-7600 depending on ECU. There is probably some things I've left off that I would need...

    Rotrex would be on par with SC (kit is $300 more), and turbo might be slightly more? Buying used could cut some costs as well.
    My black car was (is) in the power range you're looking for with stock radiator fans and no coolant reroute. For the type of track use you're looking at (2-3 HPDE's per year) you should be fine with the same setup.

    You could even skip the header to save a few hundred extra. I ran with the stock cast log manifold for 2.5 years boosted and the car was still fast.

    Since you're still in the scrimping/saving mode while shopping for deals, try and find a used MP62 (if that's what you want) and used TDR IC. You'll save a ton of money there and they can be had in good condition. (My setup was used when I bought it.)

    You may want to add to your list: PPF reinforcement, Motor Mounts, Rear diff Mounts

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