Bunch of parts came in, anyone have tips on oil cooler relocation?
I received my Trackspeed Engineering radiator this week that is 78mm rather than the 37mm koyo in my car. i expect it to fix my overheating issues. the catch with the much thicker radiator is that it only has provisions for a single fan. i dont need two fans, but my setrab oil cooler sits in the second fan location on the koyo so i have to move it. Anyone running an oil cooler that can share pics so i can get an idea of better places to mount it?
i also received my brake rotors and brake pads. i ended up going with hawk dtc-60 fronts and dtc-30 rears on hawk's recommendation. they claim those pads will last longer than the blues i had which died in 3 track days.
While i am thinking about it, i will have my perfectly workable 37mm koyo radiator for sale and i have a set of 15x7 team dynamics spec miata racing wheels shod with kumho ecsta mx 205-50-14 220 tread wear tires with about 75% tread left. The wheels came off a spec miata so they aren't perfect, but they are perfectly workable. they are painted gray/black color. anyway, this stuff is in my way, anyone know someone looking for a good set of track wheels with summer rubber and an aluminum race radiator?
Still not going to fix the ducting? Come on, dude.Originally Posted by shanem
Full blow, mouth breathing retardation.
You know where mine is mounted.
They won't. I tried 30s in the rear and they hit the backing plate after roughly 20 laps at Hallett. This is a racecar, run racecar pads.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
of course I am fixing the ducting, i thought that was a given so i didn't mention it. I like where yours is mounted, you never commented on the email i sent you asking if you thought i could duct it from that bumper opening to your location. my big worry is having to mess with the oil cooler lines, i would rather not have to buy new lines for that on top of everything else.
also what's wrong with the brake pads? you said DTC-60, hawk said for the right balance for that car to put the dtc-30 in the rear. the 30 and the 60 cover the same temp range, the 30's just have less initial bite is my understanding.
Hawk doesn't know what they're talking about on "brake balance" and they're probably thinking you're an auto-xer or lady-boy. You look at the fastest Miatas in the country and they are running the same compound front and rear.
30s melted down in my car in 2 sessions at MSR-C. DTC-60 made it through like 11 days on my car last season in the front. My current set-up uses DTC-60 all the way around and the fronts last almost twice as long as the rears...which bake thanks to the solid rotor.
You should drive over here and look at my bumper.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
it would be about right for me to talk to an idiot at Hawk and get bad recommendations. Oh well, if the pads cook in a few days on the rear i'll put DTC-60 on there next time. If i weren't 3 hours from you i would have already come by an looked at how you plumbed your set up.
Why would you want to reduce friction in a car that already has too little pressure going to the rear?
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
i figured hawk knew what they were talking about. next time ill just paypal you my money and let you choose for me. :)
edit: so i can return those dtc-30 pads and went ahead and ordered dtc-60 for the rear.
Last edited by shanem; 01-05-2013 at 12:27 PM.
Smart man. Hawk probably recommends those pads because they heard some woman-auto crosser talking about it, they heard it in a gay bar, or they think that will keep you from looping the car.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Bunch of parts came in, anyone have tips on oil cooler relocation?
We now have portable gay bars at autocrosses. Ken O demanded it.
So you guys just punch glory holes in the sides of your porta-johns?
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Overheard at recent flatoutnolifttrackjunky conversation over beers:
"We all bunk together in the trailer at Hallet. No hotel for me; all the action is in the paddock!"
Clearly much gay-er than autox.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
lol....
so i swapped the front pads and rotors today. i ran into an issue with the drivers side caliper lock bolts. The top bolt was over tightened by whoever put the last set of pads on it. Once it finally came loose, it had metal from the bolt hole in the threads. once i swapped pads over and went to torque the bolts down, the top one wont tighten now., it gets snug, and then looesns again and just keeps spinning. can the stripped threads be fixed or do i just need a new caliper?
BTDT. New calipers cost less than a machinist will charge to fix that caliper.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Steal that avatar from blipshift? Hope you got the shirt...
Speed
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Don't look...there's nothing down here for you!
I did get the shirt, i figured i was in before Disney shuts them down. I also asked them to make a shirt with a Miata on front and a Porsche driver in the background crying as he says "But my car cost $60,000"
More like 90,000. And BTW most Porsche's you beat are because of the driver not the car.
VW Bug in running shoes
M Porcupine sedan
M Porcupine coupe
Crusty old e46 beater
Battery Powered appliance car
lol, when e-preening i like to leave things like facts and common sense out
What about when an M3 beats a GT-R?
M3 is always the answer.
lolololllllllllllllllol
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
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