Water pump questions.

[cone-cerned]

Monday I noticed water with antifreeze under my beautiful Miata. Today I took the belts and the water pump pulley off. The water is coming from behind the crankshaft pulley, but not from the water pump shaft. When the car is hot, after a ten mile drive, it does not leak. But, after the car cools down, the leak starts. The water pump shaft does not seem to have any rough spots, there seems to be no up/down play, a slight amount of in/out play and a slight amount of yaw play.

Any ideas other than the water pump?

The PO reported replacing the timing belt at 66K miles, the car now has 81K miles. Should I replace the timing belt?

I would like to get the car fixed by Saturday so I can go to Madmerv's parking party. Anyone used a Duralast waterpump from Autozone? My local Autozone has one in stock.

Thanks in advance.

PS I'm glad I did not have to explain this in meat shield.

[POS Racing]

Try a pressue tester to pinpoint the leak.

[channelmaniac]

I've had great results with water pumps from NAPA for the Miata and Auto Zone for the OTMs of the past.

I had problems finding a pressure pump to rent/borrow that had the adapters to fit the Miata.

Check the tube connection on the pump... and the bolts that hold it to the block too... If they are loose you'll have leaks from around the pump instead of from the shaft area.

RJ

[Machismo]

Too, check if weep hole is source. As for Autozone waterpumps, there as good as any seeing we have to change them every 60k or so. Mine was same issue at 84k after purchasing the car w/ no idea if any maintenance had ever been done to it by previous owner. My radiator, and heater core were soon to follow w/ problems.

[cam76034]

Doug, as I told you on Sunday, I just finished a water pump/timing belt replacement on a 90 corolla. Symptoms were the same as yours, I'd find the coolant in the driveway the next morning. My understanding is if its coming from the weep holes, it means the pump is on its way out.
FWIW, O'Reilly had a new pump for the price of the rebuilt Duralast one at Autozone. Maybe they have a new one for Miata also?

[Rogue]

Water Pump, It weeps down behind the plastic shields and comes out at the crank.
I would change the belt, since you will have to take it off anyway, and change the crank seal.
Short cutting gets expensive.

[Radio-Active]

Short cutting gets expensive.

+1

Previous experiences prooved this to me when I was younger.

[cone-cerned]

Rogue, I just put new belts on about a month ago. I will replace the crank seal also. Thanks.

[boisking]

Water pump for sure. The weep hole guides the water out from behind the crank pulley, to keep coolant off the timing belt. In order to make sure you don't have to do it twice, re-use the metal gasket that is installed with the OEM pump. If it isn't there, go to the dealer and get one. It is not worth using that paper one that comes with aftermarket pumps. Reinforce the metal gasket with RTV sealant on both sides, and let it cure for at least 12 hours before refilling the coolant. When you are down there, don't forget to replace the rubber O-ring where the heater line goes into the back of the water pump (under the exhaust manifold/header). RTV silicone sealant will be well used as a lubricant to slide the tube (with O-ring) into the pump, and also reinforce the seal when it cures. Lubricating the O-ring lessens the chance that it may break upon reinstillation. Sorry for the book, but I hope it helps.

[channelmaniac]

Don't use RTV. That crap gave me hell on the Spec.

Get good old Permatex #2. It's dark brown in color, sticky as hell, and will seal it just fine. You can fill it up right away and not worry about it.

Used it on a lot of cars over the years. Ran out and couldn't find it. Tried silicone and couldn't get the thermostat cover to seal. Found the Permatex #2 and it worked perfect the first time.

You WILL want to replace that timing belt if it got coolant or oil on it.

RJ

[Rogue]

Don't use RTV. That crap gave me hell on the Spec.

Get good old Permatex #2. It's dark brown in color, sticky as hell, and will seal it just fine. You can fill it up right away and not worry about it.

Used it on a lot of cars over the years. Ran out and couldn't find it. Tried silicone and couldn't get the thermostat cover to seal. Found the Permatex #2 and it worked perfect the first time.

You WILL want to replace that timing belt if it got coolant or oil on it.

RJ

xEleventybillon

No RTV on perfectly good gaskets
Permatex 2
I use Mil spec fuel lube on threads and O-rings etc.
I also have used Copper gasket spray for nearly 30 years.


The belt gets coolant on it from a pump failure.
The weephole does not route coolant away from it.
Ive seen enough oil pumps with corrosion from it.

[cone-cerned]

All finished and back on the road. Including two trips to town, and a couple of do overs for forgotten parts, it took me about 12 hours. But, it was a barrel of fun. I'm looking forward to doing it again at 125,000 miles.

[Machismo]

Awesome, the hardest part for me was fabricating a tool to hold the crank end so I take pulley off.

[cam76034]

Awesome, the hardest part for me was fabricating a tool to hold the crank end so I take pulley off.

Trick I used to break mine loose on a Toyota was to scotch the socket using a breaker bar against the frame and then bumping the key (plugs out). Sounds horrible, but it worked. Wonder if it would on the Miata? Crankshaft rotates clockwise, right?

[channelmaniac]

Works... but you just lay the wrench down against the ground. It's muh preferred way to get the dang thing loose.

If you forget which side is which... just remember, if you get it wrong it will move UP and smack something in which case you need to put it on the other side.

Oh, and on the Miata, you need to remove the connector to the CAS so it won't try to fire the coil packs. You do NOT want to dry fire a coil pack as it will kill it.

[sammm]

Good work Doug...now I know who I'll call if I ever have to replace mine!

[cone-cerned]

I got some good pointers when I helped with Mrs. Hudson Hawk's car. Now I have done one by myself (with the help of the Enthusiast's Manual). I have no parts left over and all my tools are in my toolbox. And, everything is copasetic with the car. I'm sure I can do the third one in a lot less time. Call me when it's time.

[channelmaniac]

YAY!

That was repayment for him helping me with the Spec motor swap.

[Black_devil_miata]

[QUOTE=cone-cerned;103310]

The PO reported replacing the timing belt at 66K miles, the car now has 81K miles. Should I replace the timing belt?

QUOTE]



Inspect the belt, if it has no signs of wear or isnt cracked I dont see a point in changing it. Save your money.

[channelmaniac]

Inspect the belt, if it has no signs of wear or isnt cracked I dont see a point in changing it. Save your money.

Have you ever gotten coolant on your hands? It makes them all slippery.

Oil and coolant will contaminate the belt. It's cheaper to replace the belt than to spend the time to tear things down when the belt either slips or fails prematurely.

RJ