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Thread: Engine work cost

  1. #1

    Default Engine work cost

    So... I've never had an engine completely worked over (bored/honed, crank shaft balance, 3 angle, new pistons/rings (oem from a 00), and reassemble.

    $1050 sounds kinda high :S but if thats reasonable then great.

  2. #2

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    Plus "full gasket set"

  3. #3

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    That's reasonable.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  4. #4

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    Kewl! Thanks.

  5. #5

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    This is one of those areas where it really knows the process, what to look for, and what you are getting for your money. What you said doesn't sound bad or like a bad deal, but one glaring thing that caught my eye was you said "bored / honed." Well boring will make the cylinders larger requiring larger diameter pistons. And then you said you are going to reuse some stock '00 pistons with new rings. Well what in the heck is really going on? Are we boring? If so, we will likely need aftermarket or new pistons with a larger diameter. Are we just honing the block and installing new rings on used pistons? Well that should cost significantly less then. What type of honing are we doing, torque plate using a boring machine or just a simple bead hone that can be done with a drill press or hand drill? One costs a lot more than the other and results in a better finish.

    So before anyone can say XXXX is a good deal or not definitively, we need to know what in the hell is actually being done and what is being replaced or reused etc. Heck are the new bearings coated or non coated? One costs more..... Are the new rings OEM, aftermarket junk or high quality aftermarket rings....

    You could be getting a great deal or getting royally screwed for $1050. The answer depends on what is actually being done.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  6. #6

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    I'm gonna go with good deal.
    Polished Turd Racing

    Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."

  7. #7

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    Well at first they thought they could just hone the cylinders but ended up being a couple scratches in the walls, so they did bore it out some.
    Thats what didnt make sense to me, the 96 (the motors year) and 00 pistons are physically the same size right? Just one has a higher compression ratio. I believe oem rings.

  8. #8

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    They sell pistons (oem and oem replacement) for 0.5mm bore increase...

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by slowchildmiata View Post
    They sell pistons (oem and oem replacement) for 0.5mm bore increase...
    I would expect a good motor for $1050. I would not expect a high quality motor for $1050.

  10. #10

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    If they bored, you need new pistons that are larger diameter and new rings.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  11. #11
    Driver
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    Default

    If the head is removed, the labor for a timing belt change has to be considered. From what I have heard, the timing belt change itself would be at least a few hundred dollars before parts, and I don't know how to do a three-angle with the head still attached. Knowing the Miata engine and labor costs as well as I have been forced to know, I would think $1050 is way too low to get a quality job. It would be interesting to know what Track Dog would want for the job you described done right. My guess would be at least more than double, (considering boring and replacing all four pistons to keep things balanced,) very possibly more than triple what you were quoted to have it done in a way that most knowledgeable folks consider the "right way." As there seem to be few (if any) that consider Track Dog to engage in price gouging, a comparison between prices would show you that something doesn't seem right.

    Two decades ago, with a different car with pushrods and a normally aspirated four cylinder engine, I had an oil pump failure and went to a low priced engine rebuilder, who charged about what you look to be paying. Unfortunately, I paid in 1996 dollars, which were worth more. After repeated delays, a crappy rebuild, and the permanent smell of burnt oil in the vehicle from them storing parts in the passenger compartment during the rebuild, I learned my lesson.

    Hope this helps
    Mike Walsted - Not an expert, just a data point.
    1999 Miata
    2003 MIata
    1999 Miata
    2001 Kia Rio

  12. #12

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    I completely disassembled the motor (pistons, crank shaft, ect), had them "look it over", clean it, and reassemble the short block. (Which apparently needed to be bored out a bit because of rust at the top of the cylinder walls :S )

  13. #13

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    Oh and the head as well, they said it was a surprisingly good head compared to the block. (Which kinda worried me lol)

  14. #14

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    You had them look it over and reassemble the short block.... geez did you even get new bearings? Did they even bother to put start up lube on the old bearings? I can't say whether or not $1050 is a good deal, because it isn't clear what if anything is actually being done to your engine. Heck for all I know they are trying to reuse torque to yield head bolts too. And don't laugh, because I've seen dealerships try this retarded tactic to save a few bucks too.

    This is why everyone in the car hobby should rebuild at least one engine for their own self. At least then you know what you are getting for the money.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  15. #15

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    TTY head bolts? On a Mazda 'B' engine?

  16. #16

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    They said new bearings, pistons, piston rings, and full gasket set. Reusing my connecting rods.
    Im going tomorrow to drop off the rods so I can ask some of the other questions.

  17. #17
    Driver Nails's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrx804 View Post
    They said new bearings, pistons, piston rings, and full gasket set. Reusing my connecting rods.
    Im going tomorrow to drop off the rods so I can ask some of the other questions.
    This sounds like $1050. But if you 3 angle valve cut, you should also swap retainers and guides, lap them, and port and polish as well for maximum benefit and that would be at least another 10 hours of labor alone done properly.

    And at that stage I'd opt for new titanium valves and springs for FI later.

  18. #18

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    Don't get new valve retainers, guides need to be checked. And nothing outside a race engine should ever have titanium valve springs.

    Also your cams and followers should be checked for wear.

    I feel a lot better knowing you are getting new pistons, rings and bearings for your money. What about main, rod and head bolts? I hate reusing them when it's typically $100 for new ARP ones. The brand of bearings and rings would also be nice to know.

    A good valve job and new seals are enough on the cylinder head along with checking guide wear. If you have race aspirations in mind, then other avenues can be explored.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  19. #19

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    I actually wanted to try my own port and polishing. If/when I go to a more race oriented car ill swap for forged internals and 99/00 head ect...

    This is more of a daily driver with occasional autox. I tried to go by today to drop off my connecting rods but Day Custom Engines were closed.

  20. #20

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    I think i spent more than that on parts and pieces from mazdacomp when i did my rebuild. But then it was pretty comprehensive

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