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Thread: Rear finish panel options

  1. #1

    Default Rear finish panel options

    In my hurricane of Miata work, I've discovered another disturbing problem. I've always known my rear finish panel was cracked, but it's gotten worse over the last few months with a couple more breaks appearing in it. I've been putting it off since it didn't look too bad...

    Well, today I'm working on repainting my door panels. While the first coat was drying, I decided to pull off the taillights and see if they can be repainted (to black... they're fake CF right now). While they were off, I said "Oh, what the heck" and decided to pull off the finish panel to see if it could possibly be repaired.

    Nope.

    I'm sure I could do it with hours and hours of patient puzzle-assembly skill (and bodywork skill), but I have neither the patience or know-how to do so. Plus, as I was removing the second-to-last nut that holds it on, I tugged just a little to see where the next connection was... and half of the thing shattered. It looked like black and white confetti

    Even before I did that, it was in about 8 pieces. Even the little clip on the upper part of the license frame was broken. There's even pieces missing.

    So yeah, what are my options here? I know these seem to go for a decent amount, but being jobless at the moment I don't know if I can afford what some of these people are asking. I know that Moss sells this one:

    http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...51&SortOrder=1

    And I've heard about a CF one but it's about $400 from what I understand.

    Is there ANY cheaper way to do this?!
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  2. #2
    Mr Miata Solutions Rogue's Avatar
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    Call Joe or Sonja at R-speed.
    http://rspeed.net/product_info.php?products_id=3602

    If you go used, get a 94+, they seem to be less brittle.
    Expect to pay 120 for a brittle used one.

    Those new ones are the way to go.

  3. #3

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    Hmm... so all I need to do is find a Spec racer who can order one for me and get the "special deal" lol

    Thanks for the tip!
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    If it were me, I'd get the R-Speed one over used.

    Actually if it were me, I'd consider it a reason to upgrade to the Garage Vary tail lights.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by black roadster View Post
    If it were me, I'd get the R-Speed one over used.

    Actually if it were me, I'd consider it a reason to upgrade to the Garage Vary tail lights.
    Oh man, I know. I love the Garage Vary set but they're so expensive!!

    I may run with the R-Speed one, mainly because a used one will probably end up shattering due to my ham-handed installation skills.
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  7. #7

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    Since we're speaking of finish panels, any tips on pulling the badges off the rear? Looks like the "Miata" badge just sticks on, but the "mazda" badge has a couple of pins.
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    Since we're speaking of finish panels, any tips on pulling the badges off the rear? Looks like the "Miata" badge just sticks on, but the "mazda" badge has a couple of pins.

    You got it. A hair dryer to warm the adhesive and some careful prying. Use Goo Gone to get rid of the residue. The Mazda badge will leave holes.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by black roadster View Post
    You got it. A hair dryer to warm the adhesive and some careful prying. Use Goo Gone to get rid of the residue. The Mazda badge will leave holes.
    Cool... I didn't want to get something on the "Miata" badge that might melt the finish panel, god forbid.

    Are there some kind of nuts holding the "mazda" badge on from behind? Not the threaded kind, mind you, but those sheet metal "tricycle" nuts that push on...? I mainly want to pull the "mazda" badge off so I can at least paint it - my car apparently came with the "gold-tone" badge package. Big pimpin.
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    Are there some kind of nuts holding the "mazda" badge on from behind? Not the threaded kind, mind you, but those sheet metal "tricycle" nuts that push on...? I mainly want to pull the "mazda" badge off so I can at least paint it - my car apparently came with the "gold-tone" badge package. Big pimpin.
    IIRC, there are, but they're kind of brittle (at least they were on mine). I de-badged my car when I got it repainted. I just popped the Mazda badge right off with no problems, but I'm like that... if I were you, I'd be very careful.
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    Cool... I didn't want to get something on the "Miata" badge that might melt the finish panel, god forbid.

    Are there some kind of nuts holding the "mazda" badge on from behind? Not the threaded kind, mind you, but those sheet metal "tricycle" nuts that push on...? I mainly want to pull the "mazda" badge off so I can at least paint it - my car apparently came with the "gold-tone" badge package. Big pimpin.
    Chrome polish will remove the gold. I don't recall how the Mazda badge is affixed besides the posts.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
    if I were you, I'd be very careful.
    I will... I tend to break stuff...
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    I will... I tend to break stuff...
    Betcha you aren't as bad as me. My RC planes look like they've been through a couple of wars... and I've only crashed one of them
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  14. #14

    Default

    Well, my tax refund showed up early, so I went with the aftermarket finish panel from Rspeed. Thanks for the tip, Rogue.. I saved some money on shipping over Moss.

    Sucks to blow that kind of money on such an obscure part, but oh well. I'm depressed
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

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