Wanted: advice on buying

[Dante]

I am in the "planning" stages of buying a car specifically for autocrossing and I'd like to hear everyone's input. This wouldn't be my daily driver, but I do plan on keeping it completely streetable and not a hard-core track toy that beats you to death going to and from the events.

My budget is definitely a factor here as I'm 1) not made of money, 2) married with a 3-year-old, 3) wanting to also buy a new Camaro SS in the next year or so. I want a "dedicated" car for autocrossing since I don't want race the Camaro (regularly) and 14" tires are WAY cheaper than 20" tires.

So far as driving experience is concerned, I'm still firmly planted in the "novice" category, but I have done the Apex Driving Academy at Motorsports Ranch, and I've now got 5 autocross events under my belt (surely more by end of Summer). My goal is by next year to have my own ride ready to roll on any given weekend. I don't expect to really be competitive within my first year of racing, but it'd be nice to not always be last too.

Honestly, my budget is probably maxing out at somewhere between $4k and $5k for initial purchase price. I can slowly work up the car and I've got mechanical skills (to some degree), and tools and a garage (and a Dad who runs an auto supply store and knows people who run salvage yards). I can do the basics like fluids, belts, suspension parts, brakes, etc. I could probably handle a clutch replacement but I'm not about to tear into the motor unsupervised. Armed with a service manual and a knowledgeable friend, there's not much I wouldn't be willing to do to my car. I'm not looking for a charity / rescue case, but she doesn't have to be a beauty queen either. Honestly, I just don't want an interior that's been abused. Also, I don't think I want a car that's already been someone else's track toy for years.

From my limited research thus far, I'm thinking that an ideal car for me would be a first gen (NA) 1.8L (no turbo or s/c) with 5-spd, ABS, and Torsen diff. This means a 93-97, I believe. I'd prefer a car that isn't totally ratty on the interior but I don't mind having to do some cleanup inside and out. I'm also up for putting in new seats, a new top, new tires & wheels, and generally reconditioning a bit. Having a solid mechanical starting point is really what I'm looking for.

Any pointers, tips, things to watch out for, things to consider are appreciated. I've never bought a used car on my own before (I've only ever owned 2 cars, and the first one my parents bought for me when I was 17, the 2nd I bought new).

Do you think I'll be able to find something like what I have described for under $5k? Having well over 100k miles doesn't really bother me, but hey we'd all love to find that garage queen in mint condition for dirt cheap... at least I'm not in a huge hurry to buy one. I could wait until end of summer and wait for people to unload their "summer car" convertible on the cheap once it turns cold and rainy...

If you have any sites that I should scan periodically for cars, please share.

[POS Racing]

Just an FYI 1994 was the first year for the 1.8.

Good stuff on buying a Miata here -> http://www.miata.net/garage/garagebuying.html

[altiain]

If you’re buying a car specifically for autocrossing, the first thing I would suggest would be to pick the class you intend to compete in. This is going to dictate which Miata you want to buy.

Based on your budget, you’ve got a couple of choices. Either a ’94-’97 R Package (or a car that can be converted to an R Pack) for E Stock, a ’90-’93 with a limited slip that you can build into an ST2 car, or a ’94-’97 open-diffed car for ST2 (‘94+ Torsen cars are excluded from ST2).

A couple of notes/clarifications regarding your post above:

• The 1.8L car started in '94 and ran through '97. '93 is a 1.6L car.
• Finding a '94-'97 with ABS and a manual isn't impossible, but it is very difficult. Most NA (and NB) Miatas do not have ABS.

[Dante]

Cool, good info, thanks guys.

So far as picking an SCCA class to compete in, it'd be pretty much a random draw at this point. I guess I'd say that biggest bang for the buck is a high priority. I'm not dead set on having ABS, but yeah it'd be nice to have. I'm at the "skill building" stage and I'm not opposed to driving a "good beginner's car" for a year or 2 and then selling it and getting something for a specific class or whatever once I kinda know what I'm doing. :)

So to put it another way, if you were a total n00b and were up for buying a cheap weekend racer with the least amount of suckitude and maximum learning potential, what would you look for and what would you avoid? Or am I just overanalyzing it all? Before I go drop a few grand on a toy like this, I at least want to make sure I'm not wasting my time and money on the wrong car right out of the gate.

[jrj512]

Get a 1.8 NA (94-97).

[sammm]

Most guys start in Tire class...some of us stay there. Find the cleanest, un-molested Miata you like, can afford and start from there. After you've had it for awhile you'll know what direction you want to go in.

Personally, I like running stock class. It evens the playing field and you won't find yourself in a money pit trying to stay competitive.

[cone-cerned]

+1. I concur with sammm.

Find the best maintained 1.8L Miata you can for the money you have to spend. Run Novice for a year, or until you graduate with three wins. Run Tire for a year, then decide if you want to spend the money for R comps.

As far as ABS goes, running OEM pads in the front and Hawk HP+ in the rear is called "ABS for stupid feet". When I ask Andy Hollis about ABS, he said to learn to drive the car you have. Dennis Grant prefers non-ABS, he thinks it is possible to out brake an ABS car, if you know how to drive the car you have. YMMV.

I have the "ABS for stupid feet", it has helped me, but I am no where near the driver that Andy and Dennis are.

[ken o]

Sorry, I know very little about buying cars.

[Ataim]

Sorry, I know very little about buying cars.

Just selling?

[jrj512]

Sorry, I know very little about buying cars.

You obviously have a hard time picking the one that you really want.

[CosmosMpower]

It evens the playing field and you won't find yourself in a money pit trying to stay competitive.

Maybe local street tire stock class. Plenty of stock class guys running shocks that cost more than your average NA Miata.

[jrj512]

Maybe local street tire stock class. Plenty of stock class guys running shocks that cost more than your average NA Miata.

Yep. On a National Level, the difference between an ES Miata and an STS Miata is less than $1K.

[OZMDD]

I was in a very similar situation last fall, and found than an inexpensive NA worked-out perfectly for a streetable novice Auto-X car. I too use my Miata primarily for AutoX and have set-up the car for that purpose, but I also drive it on nice days and for the occasional spin in the country because its so damn fun. I definitley think the 1.8 (94-97) is your best bet, since its got better power and bracing, and might have a Torsen. I've had 1.8 envy ever since I got my 1.6, although its plenty competitive, other than the driver.

[Dante]

I was in a very similar situation last fall, and found than an inexpensive NA worked-out perfectly for a streetable novice Auto-X car. I too use my Miata primarily for AutoX and have set-up the car for that purpose, but I also drive it on nice days and for the occasional spin in the country because its so damn fun. I definitley think the 1.8 (94-97) is your best bet, since its got better power and bracing, and might have a Torsen. I've had 1.8 envy ever since I got my 1.6, although its plenty competitive, other than the driver.

Right on man.

Now I just gotta stack up all my pennies, keep the wife in an accepting mood and find my first victim... I mean toy... I mean racerboi car.