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Thread: TDR intercooler install. Any secret tips?

  1. #1

    Default TDR intercooler install. Any secret tips?

    I finally bought the TDR intercooler for my mp62 this past Saturday and have been installing it step by step 1 hour each night when I get home. Pretty easy and straight forward so far. I am at the point where I put the intercooler brackets on the subframe. The instruction cd is quite thorough and well done but I have not commited to how I want to do the powersteering cooler line reroute. Cut and splice the lines or recontour and bend them? I have been bending and shaping metal bands and rods around complex shapes for years when people break their arms, legs, backs, or necks but never thin hollow tubes filled with fluid. The rebending and shaping the lines seems the easier and cleaner final result but also potentially lengthier and maybe easy to get a pin hole where it will be hard to splice and patch. I just don't know. Cutting and splicing also seems potentially to have leaks.
    Does anybody have some "heads up's" or "been there, don't do that's"?
    I drive to fast to worry about my cholesterol.

  2. #2

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    rebend they have tools to bend lines easily and super cheap
    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y15...miata/don3.jpg
    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y15...miata/don1.jpg
    99 miata 62k miles, only mod is tenzo rs-5 17 inch wheels, and black robbins top

  3. #3

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    Cut and splice the power steering lines, its the best way to do it. The metal pipe is very difficult (almost impossible) to bend. And if you ever want to go back to stock the hoses Gary supplies allows it to be put back in its original place with no problems (I had to do this).

    Now the AC line you have to bend is the one you've got to be most careful with. Bend it too far and pssssssssssssssssssst. I've done (or been part of) more than a dozen of these installs and seen this happen a couple of times. So really be careful bending that aluminum line. Slowly bend it and keep test fitting it until it will clear the IC. Go to far and you'll split the pipe and then you've got a big mess on your hands.

    Also cutting the metal subframe is a lot easier using a air saw but a good metal jigsaw blade would work also. It is not a real hard install, it just takes some time and follow the instructions carefully.

  4. #4

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    Could not work on it outside tonight due to the rain. (shop was attached to house and converted to living spaces and the barn... I'm waiting for it to fall) Looked at it all again and think I will cut and splice. Stand back and think slow and look. Probably will be much easier.
    I drive to fast to worry about my cholesterol.

  5. #5

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    Make sure the intercooler does not come into contact with the high pressure a/c tube. Mine has rubbed a hole in the hundred dollar tube twice.
    I live where even the coyotes won't go...

  6. #6

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    Todd had a similar problem with one of the aluminum hard lines for his AC.

    Luckily, I had a whole spare AC system in the Spec Project car for him for free... well, kinda... he had to provide the labor to remove it.

    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  7. #7

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    It is in and running like a champ. I have some concerns about the hi A/C line. It is not touching but is very close and could. I wrapped some trimmed off radiator hose around the area on the line and secured with little zip ties.
    I need to adjust the idle now. I have droop and stalls frequently at stops. That was expected. I just hate the new location of the idle adjustment screws from the SC install. Really tight and I always end up with cuts.
    Last edited by CarCar; 09-07-2009 at 01:13 PM. Reason: i can't spell
    I drive to fast to worry about my cholesterol.

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