Reply With QuoteWe sell ultra shield seats. Available in 14-19 inch widths. Call me at the shop and I'll find out the widest that will fit.
Seat help
I have been looking at racing seats lately. I am trying to get my fat ass lower in order to get my helmet below the roll bar/hardtop. The seat doesn't have to be a daily driver, I could switch seats for track days but it does need to fit in the narrow car and my wide track ass at the same time. I sat in some seats the other day and and the Kirkey 17.5 inch seemed to fit pretty well but the padding is really skimpy. How wide a seat base will fit in a NA? I was thinking about some kind of drag seat so I could use it for daily driving. How much layback seems to be another question, and how do you mount it?
I already foamectomied my factory seat but I am so wide I am sitting on the side bolsters. Any recommendations are appreciated and any derogatory comments will be considered on an individual basis for disposition.
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
Bolt it to the floor and use square tubing to tilt it back.
I had a seat made to fit by Ultrashield. Now the question is do I need to use a specific hardware to bolt it in, i.e. grade 5 or 8? Thanks.
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
There are minor things to be done on the 'side of tranny wall'. If you are sitting in your seat, the right hand corner of the seat, closest to dash will need a rubber mallet 'adjustment'. I have seen 18" seats in spec miatas. As Ken-O wrote in previous post, get square tubing about 1" for front of seat to raise front. If you can not find that, get angle aluminum/steel from Home Depot/Lowes. I would use the best grade of steel, I can't remember what is best. Get your seat set into car WHERE YOU LIKE IT, and then add a few weighted objects to the seat. I drilled 4 holes, ONE in each corner. BECAREFUL when you drill, do not punch through anything important underneath. Bolt her up and you are ready!! Ok, you now need to add your harness!!!!Originally Posted by creek
I know you are all waiting with breathless anticipation. I got the seat and harness installed today. It's going to take a little getting used to. Thanks for the pointers guys. Now to lose a hundred pounds by spring! lol
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Check the electrical department at Home Depot if you decide to go that route and ask one of the guys for Uni-strut. There are special nut plates and braces made specifically for the Uni-strut channel.As Ken-O wrote in previous post, get square tubing about 1" for front of seat to raise front.
05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica
We are waiting for pics!!!
OK here are a couple pictures of the seat. It's a 17" with a 20 degree layback and the shoulder harness holes 2" higher than standard for my long torso. The 20 degree layback may be too extreme, it certainly gets my head below the roll bar but it puts my butt too close to the pedals. I'll work with it for a while before passing judgment.
I just realized I never posted pictures of my ram/cold air system. The air enters above the front lip and is ducted into a sealed airbox containing a K&N cone filter. It works great on the seat dyno and is most noticeable when winding out 3rd and 4th.
Last edited by creek; 11-14-2009 at 09:27 PM.
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
Very nice!!I need a CAI. I guess that you fabricated most of it.
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
Posting Permissions
