Street Alignment

[POS Racing]

The '02 is fixin to get a set of Bilstein put on it in the near future so It will need an alignment. This is my lovely wifes everyday driver so I don't want a radical tire eating setup, but I would like it to retain and possibly improve it's performance. Is the "Lanny" Alignment a good compromise?

Thought and suggestions??

TIA!

[Treibenschnell]

Is the "Lanny" Alignment a good compromise?

Thought and suggestions??

TIA!

That seems to be the best bet... the raving doesn't seem to end on the board regarding Lanny's setup.

[channelmaniac]

It's good, but if she's not an agressive driver she'll end up with excessive wear on the inside edge of the tires.

[black roadster]

It's good, but if she's not an agressive driver she'll end up with excessive wear on the inside edge of the tires.

Nope. Lanny's alignment is not known to adversly affect tire wear which is why it's so darn popular with the pointies.

[POS Racing]

Well any other suggestions??

Here is Lanny's Alignment Link!

Rear
Toe: 1/32 inch (0°4.5' or 0.075&#176 IN per side
Camber: -1.75 degrees

Front
Camber: -1.2 degrees
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Toe: 1/32 inch IN per side

[wrxmr2eater]

I used numbers from Altiain for a starting point. The Lanny alignment seems to favor more castor and also it appears more camber. I am noticing more tire wear on the insides of the tires, but not overly so for the miles on the tires. Im not sure how long you want Vivid's tires to last you, but the Altiain alignment has worked well, made the Miata more stable and it corners beautifully for a street car. I might be a bit more agressive though for the next autocross season but likely will go through street tires much more rapidly.

I drove highway 421 from Winston-Salem to Bristol, TN and back this last weekend (270+ curves and switchbacks in 21 miles x2) and was pleased with the grip in the switchbacks.

FRONT
4.5 degrees caster

-1.0 degrees camber (you might not be able to get this much. If not, set the front camber to the max you can get equally on BOTH sides - in other words, if one side can get -1.1 and the other side can only get -0.8, set both sides to -0.8 )

0 toe


REAR
-1.5 degrees camber (Actually, you should set the rear camber at 0.5 degrees more negative than the maximum the front could get. In other words, if the max at the front is -0.8, then the rear should be set at -1.3. Having more than a 0.5 degree camber split mayl make the car push in steady-state corners)

1/16" toe-IN per side (1/8" total toe-IN)

[altiain]

Keep in mind that the Lanny's alignment seems to be for the the NAs more than the NBs. Good luck to you if you can even get 1.2 degrees of negative camber in the front of Vivid's car without a lot of pushing and pulling on suspension components.

(For reference, I've currently got ~-1.2 degrees in the front of my car... and that took a lot of loosening of components and torquing things under load to get.)

[MadMerv]

Go with Iain's suggestions, and never toe-in the front, as Lanny suggests. That said, chnging shocks does not change alignment......... I would also suggest Koni's over the bilsteins. They are adjustable from "softer than stock" to "stiffer than bilsteins". Bilsteins are just a bit rough for non-aggressive driving.