AC Problems

[MadMonkey]

Well, a while back my AC went out. It started with a squealing belt... broek it twice.... then one day I turned on the AC and nothing happened. As in the fan blew, but the engine didn't slow down. So I stopped with the AC of, left it idling, and turned it on again. The rpms shot up but nothing else happened.

So... I'm assuming either the compressor clutch went out or the entire compressor went kaput.

I tried Autozone but the price was starting at $260 for a refurbished compressor... ... is there any cheaper, or should I just tear out the entire system? My problem is that I drive a black car with a black top, an aluminum shift knob, leather seats, and I wear a polyester uniform to work. Am I screwed?

-Joel

[POS Racing]

Does the compressor still spin or is it locked up? You may have lost some freon and the pressure switch has disable the system.

Drat is an R12 car, your also going to want to figure out if your going to covert it to 134a or spend some big money on fixing the R12.....

There are some commercially available R12 substitutes but I have no first hand knowledge with any of them.

[channelmaniac]

You can have the one off the spare engine if you want... it's from a 93...

Or if you want one that is still on a pressurized system, you can rip the one out of my Spec project...

Price is TCB: Free.

I had my 92 B&T converted to the newer freon... worked pretty decent.

RJ

[Darron65]

Drat is an R12 car, your also going to want to figure out if your going to covert it to 134a or spend some big money on fixing the R12.....

There are some commercially available R12 substitutes but I have no first hand knowledge with any of them.

I've used one of those R12 substitutes and I've also converted a few cars over to 134a. I'd go with the conversion kit if I had to do it again. By far the cheaper and easier solution.

[Radio-Active]

Well, If you do need a compressor, you might want to check out The Parts Group...

They have some listed for $40-55. Including r134a models.

They are also listed on the Approved Vendor list.

Sammm recommended them. See how he feels.

[Sharpie]

I converted mine over to R134 at least 4 summers ago and it's still blowing cold. I put a can in, found the leak, replaced 1 o-ring, had the system sucked dry and then added the R134. Really easy swap.

[Titus]

I converted mine over to R134 at least 4 summers ago and it's still blowing cold. I put a can in, found the leak, replaced 1 o-ring, had the system sucked dry and then added the R134. Really easy swap.

OK... Question time...

So you added the can of the R134 to the R12 that was already in there to find the leak? Is that OK to do?

How exactly do you find any leaks?

What does a shop charge to suck the system dry, or is this something you can do on your own?

What would it take to get a little help with this project?

[POS Racing]

OK... Question time...

So you added the can of the R134 to the R12 that was already in there to find the leak? Is that OK to do?

How exactly do you find any leaks?

What does a shop charge to suck the system dry, or is this something you can do on your own?

What would it take to get a little help with this project?

I've been doing some research on this for the 'lac. It is recommended that you don't mix R134 and R12 not sure what the end result would be.

I have access to a freon leak detector it will point out where the leak may reside, but not sure about the other stuff.

Anyone here an A/C professional??

[Titus]

Well my car has no AC at the moment, and I would really like to get it working before the trip to Colorado. Anyone with an airconditioned garage want to host an A/C tech day?

[Sharpie]

My neighbor is A/C certified. We sucked the system dry (which it already was due to the leak), then we added a can to find the leak, we could've used the can with dye, but we didn't it was obvious where the leak was. An o-ring just above the compressor. We sucked it dry again, then I added the conversion kit, about $40 IIRC. Do not mix R12 and R134.

My point was to say, you don't have to buy a new compressor, condensor, evaporator, etc.

[Titus]

My neighbor is A/C certified. We sucked the system dry (which it already was due to the leak), then we added a can to find the leak, we could've used the can with dye, but we didn't it was obvious where the leak was. An o-ring just above the compressor. We sucked it dry again, then I added the conversion kit, about $40 IIRC. Do not mix R12 and R134.

My point was to say, you don't have to buy a new compressor, condensor, evaporator, etc.

Cool.... so what does it take to "suck it dry"? Is there some special tool we could rent from autozone for the day so a bunch of us could go through the process, or do we need to pay a shop for a couple sucks each?

What are the odds you could get your friend to help us out? Is he the type of guy that can be influenced by a 12-pack?

What about AJ? Anyone know if AJ sucks?

[Sharpie]

Brian doesn't drink so a 12-pack is out. He brought home this machine from his body shop that did all the sucking. I'll talk to him though.

[Titus]

Brian doesn't drink so a 12-pack is out. He brought home this machine from his body shop that did all the sucking. I'll talk to him though.

Well if you talk him in to it, then I guess the 12 pack is yours my friend!

[MadMonkey]

You can have the one off the spare engine if you want... it's from a 93...

Or if you want one that is still on a pressurized system, you can rip the one out of my Spec project...

Price is TCB: Free.

I had my 92 B&T converted to the newer freon... worked pretty decent.

RJ

Sounds like the price range I was looking for!!

Anybody want to help me do a little work this Sunday or Monday?!

I'll buy you dinner, if it's cheap

[POS Racing]

Sounds like the price range I was looking for!!

Anybody want to help me do a little work this Sunday or Monday?!

I'll buy you dinner, if it's cheap

You sure your current compressor is dead? Your still going to have to get the system evacuated and refilled which is not free.

[Radio-Active]

You sure your current compressor is dead? Your still going to have to get the system evacuated and refilled which is not free.

Well... I guess you could always try the propane/butane mixture method to check it out.

[MadMonkey]

You sure your current compressor is dead? Your still going to have to get the system evacuated and refilled which is not free.

I'm not entirely sure (I'm new to the mechanical side of this stuff) but I could at least get it checked out... anybody know of a good shop?


*cough* BAM want to give me a hand?

[channelmaniac]

If the belt burns up... well, could be a bad clutch or a bad compressor... if it just won't turn on anymore (you push the AC switch and the thing never kicks on and the engine never gets the load of the compressor) then you most likely have low or no freon due to a leak. In all my years of owning cars I've never had a compressor go bad (knock on wood)

But it does happen....

So if yours is truely bad then you can have either one that I have. I should be home Sunday sometime - not sure when. I drove the Miata for a work trip and will be Riding the Dragon early Saturday morning since my week finishes up in East TN.

Raymond

[tmanAg08]

My neighbor is A/C certified. We sucked the system dry (which it already was due to the leak), then we added a can to find the leak, we could've used the can with dye, but we didn't it was obvious where the leak was. An o-ring just above the compressor. We sucked it dry again, then I added the conversion kit, about $40 IIRC. Do not mix R12 and R134.

My point was to say, you don't have to buy a new compressor, condensor, evaporator, etc.

I suspect the system in my '94 has a leak, since it blows nice and cold when I add a can, but after a week or so it's hardly cool. How hard is it to find a leak if it isn't obvious from looking? Can you get the dye at a parts store, and tell from that? At that point, is it better to have it sucked dry and refilled at a shop?

[Titus]

I suspect the system in my '94 has a leak, since it blows nice and cold when I add a can, but after a week or so it's hardly cool. How hard is it to find a leak if it isn't obvious from looking? Can you get the dye at a parts store, and tell from that? At that point, is it better to have it sucked dry and refilled at a shop?

I have spotted this the other day, and this too.