Reply With QuoteThat's what Tailchaser and I used when we flushed the lines on my Dodge truck. Good stuff...
What Brand Of Brake Fluid?
What brand of brake fluid do you guys use/recommendSaw someone mentioned Valvoline Synfluid in the pointy board. I'll also be using this for the clutch fluid change too.
Thanks
Gabriel
That's what Tailchaser and I used when we flushed the lines on my Dodge truck. Good stuff...
--
Dave"Opinions are like
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Yep, valvoline Synthetic is probably the best off the shelf choice for street/autocross.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
I'm a big fan of the Valvoline Synpower brake fluid! I run it in all my toys! It's cheap easy to find and works pretty darn good. The 502-degree boiling point (when new) doesn't hurt either!
I third that vote!Originally Posted by POS Racing
Please, please, please don't use synthetic brake fluid!!!
Synthetic brake fluid is non-hygroscopic (doesn't absorb water). This might seem to be good, but if you ever plan on driving the car hard its a very very bad thing. Any moisture that gets into the system will eventually form into tiny droplets. These will evetually get to the calipers. When you're driving hard its not unusual to see caliper temps well over 212degF. This means that those tiny droplets of water are going to boil and turn into a vapor. All of a sudden the pedal gets really mushy and you think you forgot to bleed the brakes. This is a bad thing.
Reason #2, DOT5 (synthetic) fluid is more compressible than DOT4 fluid and as a result will give you reduced pedal feel. And thats something that nobody wants!
I would buy the highest quality DOT4 fluid you can find. Its probably all pretty similar but don't buy the cheapest crap. Also buy a set of speed bleeders and a bleeder bottle. The speed bleeders are about $33 for a miata and install in about 10 min. The bottle is like $12 or so but you easily make your own with some hardware store tubing and a 20oz coke bottle.
Totally flush out your brake system if its never been done. Run an entire bottle (the small ones, not the big ones) through it. Bleed the brakes often. I try to do mine about every 2 months. With the speed bleeders I can do it by myself in about 7 minutes if the wheels are already off.
I guarantee that your car will now outbrake an identical car with DOT5 fluid in it. I have no afilliation with speed bleeders, I just think they're a great product. I've got them on two cars right now.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Evilspeed the SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid isn't like the synthetic stuff your thinking of. It's DOT 3-4 Compatible, it's not evil it can be your friend!
Quite a few of us CB types are all about the pressure cap! Altiain tell the Evilone about our brake cap.Since I believe you were the one who introduced it to most of us
Well, I will get some Eviline ASAP. Thanks!
Gabriel
Ok, if you say so. I can't find any 'real' technical information on their site that makes me feel good about it though. I've had *bad* experiences with synthetics before and I've never had a problem with the non-synthetic DOT4 stuff. If it works at a track day its good enough for me
Pressure cap? Is this some sort of Team CB budget speed bleeder? Can you guys please figure out how to make fast, cheap race tires next? :)
We have a team on it right now!
BTW. Here is some info on the Cap
All DOT 4 fluid is synthetic. When switching from 3 to 4, it's important to flush ALL the old fluid out. For that matter, it's important to flush all the old fluid out even if you're just changing brands.
DOT 5 fluid is not better than 3/4, as mentioned by evil. DOT 5.1 is a horribly numbered standard, and should really be considered 4.1, since it bears little resemblance if any to DOT 5 fluids. But, you probably won't find it at Autozone and wouldn't want to pay for it if you did. Most nervous folks recommend (and I suspect rightly so) a complete replacement of seals before switching to 5.1 fluid, though.
Now... if you've got a really old car (or just "classic" if you own a Triumph), you've got to beware of DOT 3 fluids that will eat through natural rubber seals... I don't think POS's Triumph was old enough for this "feature," but I bet you can guess how I know...
I've always used Motul RBF (500)? If you do drive hard for more than a minute or two at a time, I would go with this. From what I've heard the Valvoline won't hold up on the track.
Mick or Iain, did it hold up for you at the track events?
Chris
91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.
http://austinmiata.com/
Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant
It worked well for me no problems whatsoever! But it's normally less than 48 hours old when I show up to MSR, now I'm not so sure how it would hold up at Hallett, think I'd spend the extra pennies for the good stuff if I went to Hallett.
As POS has already pointed out, Valvoline Synpower is not a DOT 5 fluid. It is DOT 3/4, and does not exhibit all of the nasty DOT 5 characteristics that Evilspeeder mentioned.
Is it the best fluid on the market? No, but it's inexpensive and readily available, and more than you'll ever need for street use or autocrossing. I've never managed to boil it on the track, but I've never run it at Hallett, either.
I have boiled ATE Blue on the track - at TWS in my old Prelude. The Bimmer crowd seems to swear by this stuff, but I can't stand it. Stains the resevoir, cost more, has to typically be special ordered, and doesn't work worth a crap. Avoid at all costs, imho.
In my personal opinion, if you're going to take your car to the track and work it hard from time to time, I would suggest Motul RBF600. This is my personal fluid of choice - it costs a little more and you have to typically order it online or find a local sportbike shop that carries it, but it's worth it. I've never managed to get fluid induced brake fade while using Motul, no matter what the conditions, even at Hallett, where I managed to wear a brand new set of Hawk HP+ pads down to nothing in five track sessions (Hallett has some serious braking zones).
One thing about Motul - it does tend to be more hygroscopic than your average brake fluid, so its performance deteriorates more quickly over time. My general rule of thumb with Motul is to flush it every six months or before every track event, whichever comes first. For the Vavoline Synpower stuff, I recommend flushing every year or before every track event, whichever comes first, although if you intend to do more than one or two track events a year I would highly recommend stepping up to the Motul. It is more expensive, but it is a better fluid, and your brakes are not something you want to skimp money on when you're on the track.
Recap:
Valvoline Synpower - "altiain approved" for street & autocross use (it's what I use in any of my cars that won't see track time)
Motul RBF600 - "altiain approved" for heavy track use. If you cook this, you've got bigger brake problems.
ATE Blue - Overpriced, underperforming crap. I wouldn't put this in POS's car, let alone my own.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
As POS
I have boiled ATE Blue on the track - at TWS in my old Prelude. The Bimmer crowd seems to swear by this stuff, but I can't stand it. Stains the resevoir, cost more, has to typically be special ordered, and doesn't work worth a crap. Avoid at all costs, imho.
Recap:
Valvoline Synpower - "altiain approved" for street & autocross use (it's what I use in any of my cars that won't see track time)
Motul RBF600 - "altiain approved" for heavy track use. If you cook this, you've got bigger brake problems.
ATE Blue - Overpriced, underperforming crap. I wouldn't put this in POS's car, let alone my own.
eh, I run the ATE Blue stuff on the Rx7... Worked just great for me up at Hallet... Is it the best? I dunno, I haven't used everything... but It outlasted the HP+ pad that were on the car that day... It also comes in gold. Makes it real easy to see when the old fluid is out and the new is in if you alter colors... (granted I heard a rumor the gold was going away)
i'm no expert but i've never had any problem with the valvoline synthetic...that's what i've been running since i found the stuff.
See profile for more details: 14.56 @ 94.89 on 50 shot. 2.18- 60', 9.40 @ 75.52- 1/8.
Castrol would be the best, but it's expensive. I've always used Motul.
Doug Rippie Motorsports Comparison Chart
Only $69.00 each!
I'll stick with the 10 dollar a liter Motul.
Chris
91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.
http://austinmiata.com/
Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant
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