99-00 engine

[Maniac Mitch]

Well, guys I did more testing and I'm not so sure I have a valve seal problem like I thought. So I'd like to explore finding a GOOD 99-00 Miata engine to just replace my 95 with. I'd get a rpm switch for the intake and use my injectors and fuel rail and my computer.

Anyone have any leads on a 1999 or 2000 Miata engine in good shape??

TIA,

Maniac Mitch

[Rogue]

Mitch did you do a leak down test? (I've got a tester if you need)

What are your Compression numbers?

Try another compression test and shoot 3 swirts of oil in on the piston to seal the rings.

[channelmaniac]

If it's rings on # 4 just take the engine over to John and let him redo it. You'll get back a great running engine and no worries about whether or not the JDM/Junkyard one is in good shape.

I have an engine hoist if you need to borrow one.

A small furniture dolly (the kind with 4 wheels made out of 2x4s) will hold the engine nicely and allow it to be rolled around with ease.

RJ

[CraiginTX]

My '96 had an oil pump failure that took out a bearing or 2. I spent several weeks looking for a '99 or '00 engine I felt comfortable spending more than a couple hundred bucks on. Looked like 600 - 800 (minimum) will get you "Seemed to run okay before I pulled it from a wrecked car"

Tom at www.partsgroup.com will only sell you an engine that's been dyno-tested, compression checked, and had the valve clearances checked and set - but it'll cost you probably $1500.

I spent about that with John Day, but got new pistons, fresh cylinder bores, new bearings and seals, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt, fresh valve job, etc, etc...

Good luck, whatever you decide...

[Maniac Mitch]

Rogue,
Compression test yielded 170-175 on all cylinders. I don't have a leak-down tester but I can apply 120psi air to any cylinder because the Snap-on compression tester has separate hoses with plug ends and an air nipple on the other. I applied 120psi for about 5 minutes and never heard anything. I then did the 2-3 oz of light oil in each cylinder to see if it will leak down past the rings. That was ok. Considering it's fouling out #4 really bad, I thought I'd see something. I suspected a valve seal until I got smart and ran the tests again after running the engine, getting it warmed up really good...maybe hot if you will. When driving I couldn't ever detect any blue smoke during long deceleration runs. In the driveway, if I rap the engine, buzzing it up and down rapidly I get a LOT of blue smoke. If I hold it steady at 3000 rpm no smoke. However steady at 4000 got oil smoke. At 4500 it was worse. I then did the 2-3oz of light oil in each cylinder...I made sure I put equal amounts in each. #4 was completely drained in less than 30 minutes...the others had oil still at 1 hour.

So I no longer think it's a valve seal...suspect oil control ring in #4. Wish I'd thought to check the compression again hot.

Channelmaniac, I have a hoist and stand...thanks anyway.

Maniac Mitch.