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Thread: Bedding your Rotors

  1. #1

    Thumbs up Bedding your Rotors

    I got this from WilWoods website. Just for anyone not in the know heres how its done according to the engineers.

    http://catalogs.wilwood.com/_pdf/_pa...PadCatalog.pdf

    Pad and Rotor Bedding

    Bedding is a "real conditions" heat cycle and the final step in
    preparing the pads and rotors for service. All pads, even OE
    stock replacement parts, will benefit from a proper bedding
    cycle. All rotors, especially cast iron rotors that will be operated
    at sustained high temperatures, will provide longer service life
    and smoother braking when properly bedded. Bedding can be
    done either in the vehicle, or on a special bedding dyno that
    can realistically duplicate the torque loads, pressure, and
    temperature that will be realized in the vehicle.
    Rotor

    Rotor Bedding

    Rotor bedding is an essential element to high level
    performance and durability. It is most critical with cast iron
    rotors. Cast iron is extremely well suited to use as a brake rotor,
    but it can be susceptible to thermal stress, distortion, and even
    cracking if subjected to rapid changes in temperature when it's
    new. The cracking sound that you may hear when pouring a
    favorite beverage over a glass of ice is thermal shock. A proper
    bedding cycle will gradually bring the rotors up to temperature
    and then allow them to cool slowly and completely in order to
    "season" and relieve any remaining stresses from the casting
    and machining processes. With some compounds, a layer of
    pad material may also be embedded onto the rotor face. It is
    important that this "transfer layer" be deposited slowly and
    smoothly. Otherwise, pedal pulsing and compromised friction
    values can result.

    Pad Bedding

    The bedding process is the final "heat cure" for the pads. This
    final bedding cure differs from an oven heat cure in such that
    the oven heat cure does not include the pressure, torque, and
    elevated surface temperatures that are necessary to properly
    condition the pad for service. As it is with the rotors, new pads
    must be gradually brought up to temperature and then slowly
    cooled. If the pads are put into hard service right from the start,
    damage from fractures or accelerated deterioration due to
    extreme temperature variations between the surface and the
    body of the pad can occur. Overall poor performance with the
    potential for rotor damage are often the results.

    Bedding Steps

    Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe
    to operate the vehicle, follow these steps for bedding of all pad
    materials and rotors.
    1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately
    30 MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for
    cooling between each stop.
    2. Progress with a series of 8-10 moderate stops from around
    45 MPH down to 30 MPH allowing a 20-30 second cool
    down period between each stop.
    3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH
    down to 25 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds of cool down time
    between each stop.
    4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount
    of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has
    dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the
    brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this
    time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to
    ambient air temperature.

    Notes:

    During the bedding process, a more positive feel from the
    brakes should develop. This is an indication that the bed in
    process is working. If any level of brake fade is observed during
    the hard stops, it may be an indication that the brakes have
    been more than adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes
    with light driving and without brake contact immediately.
    Blah blah blah!

  2. #2

    Default

    I have always wondered if new cars go through some sort of brake bedding process before delivery.

  3. #3

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    They do have a dyno for bedding brakes. Who'd of thunk it

    Wilwood Dyno Bedding Service

    Wilwood offers computer controlled dyno bedding on many
    popular pads and rotors used in high temperature racing
    applications. Contact a dealer or factory representative
    for details.
    Blah blah blah!

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    I have always wondered if new cars go through some sort of brake bedding process before delivery.
    If I test drive them they do! Drive it until you smell the brakes.

  5. #5

    Default

    I never let my rotors go to bed with me....

  6. #6

    Default

    I always take them to dinner and a movie to bed them in. Makes it much easier.

  7. #7

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    Must be important Mazda included this flier in a set of brake pads I just bought from them although Mazda called the procedure burnishing.

  8. #8

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    I noticed that every mfg has different procedures. Looks like Mazda has the most gentle procedure! I don't recall I ever seen this piece of paper in the box though!
    Gabriel

  9. #9
    Chassis Designer
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    108

    Default

    The WilWood procedure is pretty much identical to the burnishing sequence I've seen on websites of other brake part manufacturers, and in the GM service manuals I've got. This is basically the procedure that my Dad taught me 10 years ago, and I've never had a car that I drive develop pulsing rotors. I had OEM pads on my Vue at 65k miles and I wore the pad all the way down to the backing plate and it started squealing metal on rotor *eek* on one side because evidently the factor didn't get it on straight or something - one side wore down faster than the other.

    Brake shops always tell you to "take it easy for 50 miles and try not to sit with your foot hard on the pedal especially after coming off the highway" when you put on new brakes. They figure a light duty cycle will do fine for a bedding. It doesn't have to be perfect for most folks, they just don't want them coming back in 500 miles saying "These crap rotors you gave me are pulsing already" when it's most likely the owner driving with 2 feet and overheating the pads, then standing on the brakes at every light with maximum pressure applied after a near-panic stop at every single light in town...

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