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Thread: New Owner Interested in Cheap Autocross Mods... springs/tires?

  1. #1

    Default New Owner Interested in Cheap Autocross Mods... springs/tires?

    Intro: Im from Ft Worth and have always wanted an autocross toy. I never had the funds to do so with all my other projects. I have been riding sportbikes for years, have a LT1 powered AWD S10 Blazer, and recently came across a cheap NA. Sooo....

    My boss and I are just picking up a couple miatas. A 90 and 91, bone stock cars to be exact. We bought them for the sole purpose of autocrossing since our pickups are certainly not race cars. lol Now these are bone stock budget cars with very tight "race" budgets. We have read lots of good info online about SCCA, Equipe Rapide, etc and plan to come out and play with you guys soon. Mine will not be a daily driver, but would like to drive it on the street with tags, inspection, insurance and all. So we will call it a street car for autocross. His will be trailered from our shop to the parking lots to play with no tags or insurance, just a title and keys, so his will be a race only toy.

    Here are the questions...
    On a shoe string budget, what if anything, would be recommended to do to the cars? Im talking just a few hundred dollars. I can only dream of high end shocks, race tires, wheels, turbo, cage, fire system, etc. Remember, Im talking a few hundred bucks. The stock Miata will be a blast to run by itself this year. From what I have gathered... springs, shocks, and tires would probably be the best starting point.

    So, I was thinking about doing new springs and sway-bars.
    Racing beat springs $175 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...prings_kit.htm
    Racingf beat springs and sway bars $350 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...ension_kit.htm

    Maybe some tires. What would you gusy say is a good, cheap, sticky road tire? Ir just stockers at 40psi till I really can do some suspension work?

    Any input would be great!
    Thanks so much!

  2. #2
    Team Cheap Bastard
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    Welcome aboard! Run what you brung until you decide what clubs you want to autocross with. If you want to run SCCA and/or ER, you will have to follow their strict classing rules. If you want to run NTAXS, BMW or Porsche, it's a more wide open,generic classing. You can run all clubs of course, but they have very different classification rules.

    Having said that, if the suspension is original on those cars, it's going to be very tired. Typically the first upgrades are tires, bump stops, shocks, front sway bar. Cars must be mechanically sound to pass the mandatory inspection before you run with any autocross club. Basic stuff like..lack of wheel bearing play, fluids, belts, secure battery, etc.

  3. #3

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    What Sammmy said.

    I pretty much ran my car as I got it for a few months until the all-seasons that came on it wore out. Them I bought good tires. A few months after that, I bought a sway bar, and so on... Anyway, seat time (in your car as is or modified) is the most important. BMW and NTAXS events offer eight runs. PCA events are usually more than eight. ER is usually six. SCCA (because of the number of people) is usually 4-5 runs. There is a BMW event on Saturday, so bring 'em out as is.

  4. #4

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    BTW, don't bother with a rear sway bar for autocrossing. The stock rear bar (or no rear bar at some venues) is all you need. My rear RB bar sits in my garage.

    The basic AX needs are a set of Koni Sport (yellow) shocks, a front sway bar (RB or FM), and good tires. After that, they sky's the limit.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by sammm View Post
    Welcome aboard! Run what you brung until you decide what clubs you want to autocross with. If you want to run SCCA and/or ER, you will have to follow their strict classing rules. If you want to run NTAXS, BMW or Porsche, it's a more wide open,generic classing. You can run all clubs of course, but they have very different classification rules.

    Having said that, if the suspension is original on those cars, it's going to be very tired. Typically the first upgrades are tires, bump stops, shocks, front sway bar. Cars must be mechanically sound to pass the mandatory inspection before you run with any autocross club. Basic stuff like..lack of wheel bearing play, fluids, belts, secure battery, etc.
    Ill go over the car with my mechanic to make sure the car is tip top mechanicly. Im sure we have some tired suspension since its 20 years old and 150k miles on them.
    We would like to keep them fun and easy to play with whicle all the while upgrading to better and better as the years go on. My neighbor just bought a Forumula Ford he plans to autocross as well. Should be a good time!

    Quote Originally Posted by jrj512 View Post
    What Sammmy said.

    I pretty much ran my car as I got it for a few months until the all-seasons that came on it wore out. Them I bought good tires. A few months after that, I bought a sway bar, and so on... Anyway, seat time (in your car as is or modified) is the most important. BMW and NTAXS events offer eight runs. PCA events are usually more than eight. ER is usually six. SCCA (because of the number of people) is usually 4-5 runs. There is a BMW event on Saturday, so bring 'em out as is.
    Thats good advice. Seat time is more important than mods. I work this saturday and my car wont be ready. We are doing bodywork and fun custom paint jobs on them before anything. (we run a bodyshop)

    Quote Originally Posted by jrj512 View Post
    BTW, don't bother with a rear sway bar for autocrossing. The stock rear bar (or no rear bar at some venues) is all you need. My rear RB bar sits in my garage.

    The basic AX needs are a set of Koni Sport (yellow) shocks, a front sway bar (RB or FM), and good tires. After that, they sky's the limit.

    So you think that Koni shocks are the way to go, $600 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...nsion/koni.htm
    front sway bar $115-$160 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...b_swaybars.htm

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    Be careful with bodywork as for SCCA and ER that can jack you into rough classes (thinks like a CF hood or body kits). Otherwise, paint them powder blue

  7. #7

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    No no, I just mean fixing dings and dents and a new nifty color. I'm thinking 96 Corvette Grand Sport blue with stripes and hash marks. My only body mod will be blasted and painted handles and a license plate frame. Lol

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregW View Post
    So you think that Koni shocks are the way to go, $600 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...nsion/koni.htm
    front sway bar $115-$160 http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...b_swaybars.htm
    Konis seem to be the best "cheap" performance shock, but cheap is relative. Several people on this board would also suggest the Bilsteins, but I have not tried them. Either is good and they have decent resell value if you want to upgrade later.

    I like my 1 1/8th RB hollow bar.

  9. #9

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    So quite a bit of the cars setup is open to individual interpretation and opinion. Like which is better, Chevy or Ford? Heh

  10. #10

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    I would get the front sway first and foremost.. Cheap, easy install, and very noticeable improvement... listen to jrj, he knows what's up! lol
    Cory
    2006 Mazda MX-5 GT (SOLD)
    ​1999 Mazda Miata (FOR SALE)
    2004 Chevrolet Z06/Z16
    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 650

  11. #11

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    Ohhh and definitely modern day Ford
    Cory
    2006 Mazda MX-5 GT (SOLD)
    ​1999 Mazda Miata (FOR SALE)
    2004 Chevrolet Z06/Z16
    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 650

  12. #12

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    Sway bar. Any sway bar is better than none or is there a specific brand, size, type that is good to look for?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHeavin_2006 View Post
    Ohhh and definitely modern day Ford
    Ok, now I know that you are wrong. Cause anyone who knows anything knows it all about Chevy... Well, and Mazda... Honda is good too. but certainly not Ford. ack.

    hehe

  14. #14

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    My Mazda is pratically a Ford...so what exactly are you trying to say?
    Cory
    2006 Mazda MX-5 GT (SOLD)
    ​1999 Mazda Miata (FOR SALE)
    2004 Chevrolet Z06/Z16
    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 650

  15. #15

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    Yeah, I guess you are right. Lol

    So back on topic, where is a good place to get parts from?

  16. #16

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    flyinmiata.com
    good-win-racing.com
    trackdogracing.com

    I have an NC, though..
    jrj has an NA, I would just check with him..
    Cory
    2006 Mazda MX-5 GT (SOLD)
    ​1999 Mazda Miata (FOR SALE)
    2004 Chevrolet Z06/Z16
    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 650

  17. #17

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    So basically with these cars, parts are mail order? No local shopping/ pickup places?

  18. #18

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    Trackdogracing is located in Dallas.
    I don't know of any other exclusive miata places that are that local..
    Also, check around on the dfwmiata.com and good-win-racing classified forums..
    You can find some great deals on used parts. There is always sway bars floating around.
    Cory
    2006 Mazda MX-5 GT (SOLD)
    ​1999 Mazda Miata (FOR SALE)
    2004 Chevrolet Z06/Z16
    2013 Kawasaki Ninja 650

  19. #19

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    I guess it depends on what you need. I use Google a lot to find prices. And there is nothing wrong with Track Dog Racing.

  20. #20
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    Depends on what kind of parts you need. Nissan Mazda heaven is the local parts recycler and they're good guys. If you need new OEM parts, I recommend you look at the Mazda Comp program (http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/). You get a pretty hefty discount on OEM parts direct from Mazda.

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