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Thread: Seafoam - Does this stuff really work?

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    Driver BFPW's Avatar
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    Default Seafoam - Does this stuff really work?

    I'm a bit suspicious, but I've never tried it. Anyone here have any good (or bad) results from it?

  2. #2

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    Yep, it works & I think just about everyone here has used it. Contrary to what everyone on here has probably done, you should not over do it thus creating a mega ton of smoke. The correct way is to slowly suck in the Seafoam through one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body, or if you have the cool iv setup that professional shops have then you let a slow steady stream/drip go over about 20-30 minutes with the throttle bumped up a little.
    90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows

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    Driver BFPW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by icepenguin66 View Post
    Yep, it works & I think just about everyone here has used it. Contrary to what everyone on here has probably done, you should not over do it thus creating a mega ton of smoke. The correct way is to slowly suck in the Seafoam through one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body, or if you have the cool iv setup that professional shops have then you let a slow steady stream/drip go over about 20-30 minutes with the throttle bumped up a little.
    I was thinking about pouring half in an empty water bottle, then using the vacuum line to slowly suck it out of the bottle. Then the other half in the gas tank.

    But I do not know the step-by-step procedure for the whole Seafoam process.

    I'm asking because I need to change my oil soon, and I'd like to do this over the weekend.

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    MME Goodwill Ambassador onething's Avatar
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    Plenty of threads on the pointy board. I've used it and it really made a differnce.
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  5. #5

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    Yeah that sounds like a good way to do it.
    90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows

    92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...

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    Quote Originally Posted by onething View Post
    Plenty of threads on the pointy board. I've used it and it really made a differnce.
    I'm just a bit confused by the process. There are many people who disagree on how to properly go about doing it.

    For example, some people say that you should change your oil immediately after, whereas other people say you should change your oil after you drive around for a bit.

    Some people say that you should leave your engine sitting with Seafoam in it for 15 minutes, others say an hour.

    Some people say that you open up the oil cap and pour some in, but other people say that you should not do that as Seafoam is a solvent and is not good for oil.

    Some people say that you should drive your car really hard after using Seafoam, but others say that doing so would be harmful to the engine.

    I'm just a bit confused.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BFPW View Post
    I was thinking about pouring half in an empty water bottle, then using the vacuum line to slowly suck it out of the bottle. Then the other half in the gas tank.

    But I do not know the step-by-step procedure for the whole Seafoam process.

    I'm asking because I need to change my oil soon, and I'd like to do this over the weekend.
    I wouldn't use a plastic bottle. It may have a reaction to the plastic and gum up your fuel system. That stuff comes in a metal can so I'd leave it in the can and use fuel safe hosing to draw it out.

  8. #8

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    Worked fine for a minor issue on a new to me miata that had been sitting for some time.. I just tee'd off a vac line to intake, let it draw in during idle, and then ran the car moderatly hard afterward. None in tank or oil. Did not change oil afterward. Cured an annoying stumble at cruise. ymmv.

  9. #9

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    Rather than a plastic bottle, I tore a Coke can in half and used that as a reservoir. I warmed up the engine to operating temp first. Dissolving hard crap (like the carbon deposits you want to get rid of) probably works better at a higher temp. I poured a third of the can into the Coke can half, used some spare vacuum line (buy a foot at your FLAPS when you get the Seafoam), and used vacuum line to the intake to suck in small amounts with the engine running. I let it suck in a slightly higher rate as the Seafoam ran out and shut off the engine immediately. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so (give it enough time to soften the carbon, not enough time to cool all the way down again). Start the car and go make some acceleration runs (higher rpm, under load) to knock the softened crap loose and blow it out. When it stops smoking, you're done. My car made tons of smoke and the process worked like a charm according to the inspection station.

  10. #10

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    p.s. I changed the oil after the Seafoam treatment too. I figured I just knocked a bunch of stuff loose and it might have made my oil dirty. No reason not to change it just for good measure, really.

    I did NOT put Seafoam in my oil or my gas. What would be the point in that? The intake treatment did the job and I can't see how contaminating the gas or oil with highly diluted Seafoam could have anywhere near the same effect.

  11. #11

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    http://www.seafoamsales.com/

    It also helps fight male pattern baldness and shyness when dealing with the opposite sex when used as directed!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwisenheimer View Post
    Rather than a plastic bottle, I tore a Coke can in half and used that as a reservoir. I warmed up the engine to operating temp first. Dissolving hard crap (like the carbon deposits you want to get rid of) probably works better at a higher temp. I poured a third of the can into the Coke can half, used some spare vacuum line (buy a foot at your FLAPS when you get the Seafoam), and used vacuum line to the intake to suck in small amounts with the engine running. I let it suck in a slightly higher rate as the Seafoam ran out and shut off the engine immediately. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so (give it enough time to soften the carbon, not enough time to cool all the way down again). Start the car and go make some acceleration runs (higher rpm, under load) to knock the softened crap loose and blow it out. When it stops smoking, you're done. My car made tons of smoke and the process worked like a charm according to the inspection station.
    Quote Originally Posted by cwisenheimer View Post
    p.s. I changed the oil after the Seafoam treatment too. I figured I just knocked a bunch of stuff loose and it might have made my oil dirty. No reason not to change it just for good measure, really.

    I did NOT put Seafoam in my oil or my gas. What would be the point in that? The intake treatment did the job and I can't see how contaminating the gas or oil with highly diluted Seafoam could have anywhere near the same effect.
    Thanks! :)

    Now, another question. People say use the vacuum line near the throttle body. Is this it?



    Or is it the smaller one right above it?

    I am a noob, and still learning, so be easy on me.

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    You can use that one, or the one right above it with the rubber stopper on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sammm View Post
    You can use that one, or the one right above it with the rubber stopper on it.
    Thanks, I'll use the one with the rubber stopper on it.

    I've got the hang of it now.

  15. #15
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    Seafoam is a good product I have used it on many different vehicles. It works well at removing varnish and engine sludge when used correctly.
    It really depends on how bad things are. Do you need to put in the gas tank? No, but you can, just not a whole can. Can you mix it in the
    oil? Yes, again just 1/3 to 1/2 can. Start up and let run at idle until warm then change oil. Leaving it in the engine and driving with an overly
    filled crankcase may cause issues. I know when I did the M after I first bought it I flushed the engine oil and after the oil stayed clean and golden looking for at least the last 500 miles. It is just now starting to look amber color. The oil and seafoam I drained out from the crank case looked like coffee. I think the oil treament works the best, but thats just my opinion...
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    Driver Matt V's Avatar
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    I used one of the vacuum lines from the intake manifold, as directed by a DIY video I found on the sticky board. It seemed to really make a big difference and cleaned out the intake really well. I also recommend getting a bottom of carb cleaner and spraying it directly into the throttle body opening with a hose, and watch it drip back down and eliminate all the gunk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt V View Post
    I also recommend getting a bottom of carb cleaner and spraying it directly into the throttle body opening with a hose, and watch it drip back down and eliminate all the gunk.
    Really!
    That will remove the coating in the throttle body and cause more problems.

  18. #18
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    Which coating are you talking about Stevan? Whenever I did it I saw nothing but carbon buildup come out.

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    HUGE difference between carb cleaner and throttle-body cleaner. Google it.

  20. #20

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    And make sure the throttle-body cleaner reads "sensor and Catalytic converter safe"...
    CRC for throttle-body cleaner and CRC MAF cleaner works great.
    Seafoam FTW! Also lets you know where all your vacuum leaks are... he he.
    I use to worry about money; but then realized I don't HAVE anything to worry about.

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