Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Timing belt service...intake recommendations?

  1. #1
    FilthyMonkeyRacing
    Guest

    Default Timing belt service...intake recommendations?

    So im compiling my list of parts for my timing belt change and unfortunately im cursed w/ a sense of perfection and so i know i already have gone beyond what is absolutely necessary but i would rather do something right the first time then go back later so here is what i have compiled:
    DIY Timing Belt Cost:

    TDR: Cost:

    Gates Racing Timing Belt $59
    Water Pump $65
    Cam seals $15
    Crank Seal $10
    TB idler/tensioner $48
    Valve cover gasket $49
    Gates alt/wp belt $21
    Gates ps/ac belt $21
    Aux hose set $38
    NGK v power plugs $15
    Royal Prple pwr str fluid $6

    Moss Miata
    Jackson Racing 160 therm. $6
    Jackson R. plug wires 8mm $48

    Good-win-Racing
    KCIS magnetic drain plug $24
    Drift magnetic oil filter $10
    Samco silicone hoses $109
    koyo radiator cap 19psi $25
    koyo radiator plug $10

    Mini-P
    oil cooler/relocation kit $150

    Total: $729 or $525 if i heed trickyrix wise advice

    Of course thats still not including a good synthetic oil(royal purple is my usual) and anti-freeze and DI water and this list is after removing some items like a TDR strut brace and valve cover(i can paint mine) and koyo radiator but i do want to do a air intake even though ONE DAY i wanna do forced induction i want some engine music till then so i have narrowed it down to a AEM($200) intake or the DDM works Stage 2 intake($354..leaning heavily towards this one) and if anyone on here has had experience with either and there thoughts? Any suggestions on anything i left out on list is appreciated.
    Last edited by FilthyMonkeyRacing; 01-29-2013 at 02:26 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    TDR silicone intake is bauce.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  3. #3
    FilthyMonkeyRacing
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq View Post
    TDR silicone intake is bauce.
    This is the one your referring to:
    http://trackdogracing.com/trackdogra...filterkit.aspx

  4. #4

    Default

    No, I was referring to the one on my NA cars.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  5. #5

    Default

    Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

    Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
    TB/WP kit - $200
    Coolant hose kit - $110
    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  6. #6
    Driver
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Princeton Texas
    Posts
    667

    Default

    ^^^

    +1
    JDSM, creating innovative products and ideas to increase your Miata's performance since 2014. GO ZOOM ZOOM!


  7. #7
    FilthyMonkeyRacing
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

    Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
    TB/WP kit - $200
    Coolant hose kit - $110
    Going that route ^^^ would save $125 so far...if i still kept the other stuff. $160 if i forget the radiator cap and plug.
    I feel all warm and fuzzy inside...i think i found my "forum father" so wise and ready to dispense his wisdom..please no "in my day..." stories and we will be ok. Going by your comment on the first major news thread im guessing your in your late 30's to early 40's and have learned from many mistakes and being that im still a "young buck"(2 i still get ahead of myself...so appreciate the looking out.

    Seriously though i appreciate your input and will consider the OEM route...especially considering i could spend what i save on real performance parts.
    Last edited by FilthyMonkeyRacing; 01-29-2013 at 02:06 PM.

  8. #8
    Engine Builder 786's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Coppell, TX
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickyrix View Post
    Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

    Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
    TB/WP kit - $200
    Coolant hose kit - $110
    This is what I'm doing. Rosenthal is great to deal with. Quick shipping too.

  9. #9

    Default

    When I did mine in Nov, I got the all the stock hoses from TDR and the 180 thermostat. The Silicone hoses look pretty, but don't move the water around any better. I talked with Black Roadster (??) about the thermostat and for an N\A engine 180 was best. I used NAPA coolant, ethyl glycal is ethyl glycal. (it would be even better if I could spell it). Have fun with the oil cooler hoses. I found it easier without the oil filter, alternator and intake manifold brace in place.
    '99 Emerald Green - 2015 NASA Texas TTE Season Champion (showing up is really 100% of it)

  10. #10
    FilthyMonkeyRacing
    Guest

    Default

    ^^^Only figured silicone hoses for longevity but hey as long as it takes for rubber ones to fail i would be money ahead. As far as thermostat i wasn't set on 160 but that was my first thought since i figure the stock one opens at around 190-200 so i figured it would appreciate the drop but if yall say 180 works best especially since yall track yall's cars then sounds good.

    As far as the oil cooler is concerned im assuming your last statement about the alternator and manifold brace was concerning the routing of said hoses????

  11. #11

    Default

    I would go with 180. The 160 won't allow your heater to work as well. The 180 will work great on a track/autoX car. Use a 160 if you have overheating issues on the track and you've tried everything else.

    As for the oil cooler hoses. They're a PITA because they are hard to access. Removing the manifold brace and oil filter will make it much easier. They are still a PITA though. It's the hose clamps that can fight you.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  12. #12
    FilthyMonkeyRacing
    Guest

    Default

    ^^^ok. Appreciate everyones opinions and experience sharing.

Similar Threads

  1. blew my timing belt, accessory belt, and radiator hose...
    By Jiggerachi in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 65
    Last Post: 10-30-2011, 12:59 PM
  2. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-11-2011, 09:50 PM
  3. Timing belt
    By j_eible in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-08-2008, 02:22 PM
  4. Tree Removal Service Recommendations?
    By apex2apex in forum Bull
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-11-2008, 12:23 PM
  5. Timing Belt
    By cam76034 in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-27-2007, 11:07 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •