Best Miatas to FI...
What years are the best/most desirable to get if you intend to add FI:
I know that 90-93 have less options, but cheaper options with the 1.6L
and 94-95 are desirable as they are pre-OBD2.
Are 99-00's better than newer models as they have less compression?
My preferences are either FM2 turbo or MP62 supercharger, and the TDR A/A intercooler looks to be part of my equation as well.
I have a 92 1.6, but think I want to start with the "big block" 1.8, and have been looking at trading up to a 99-02 model...
Thanks for any ideas or opinions.
SOLD: 92 silver w/hardtop, voodoo, Kosei wheels, pine tree air freshener, and some JR stuff.
SOLD: 99 silver; the old Goodwin supercharged car with gobs of power and everything else on it.
SOLD: 95 triple black; stock
SOLD: 99 black and tan; loaded and clean; just hit 50k miles.
SOLD: 2006 Copper Mica Red; stock.
FOR SALE: 2007 Galaxy Grey Grand Touring; stock; 38k miles.
Re: Best Miatas to FI...
If I was getting a new miata to go FI with, I would look for a 94-95 (1.8 but pre-OBD2) and I would add a 99-00 head (better flow).Originally Posted by bigDstars
EDIT: That said, I love the 1.6 I have now and I wouldn't sell it just to get the optimal combo.
Or find a 99/00 car and get a 94-97 bottom end....
Chris
Be careful with the 01 & up models... higher compression and lower max HP that you can safely boost it to... If you want an NB then stick with a 99-00 model... The 94-97 run even lower compression and can be boosted higher than the 99-00.
Gary has the info listed on the Track Dog website.
RJ
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
If the goal is an NB with low compression... this is the way to go, but I don't believe it is going to help you get away from OBD2.
Ok why all the hate towards OBDII? I have it and as a matter of fact the OBDII Link is more capable than the OBDI Link. Passed inspection no problem and am able to run full stand alone ECU. If you were to put a stand alone ECU on an NB then you would not pass inspection and I am not aware of any plug and play ECU's for the NB. Your best bet with an NB is piggy back, but then your tunning is limited somwhat. If you want to stay in the 220whp range then you will be fine with this, but if you want to go for the gold with a built motor then you may want to look at the NA's.
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami
Sorry... not speaking from experience... I have just heard Keith from FM say that life is easier without OBDII.
Another option, possibly crazy but, wouldn't a new MSM be the best platform?
It has lower compression, upgraded suspension, brakes, tranny.
2004 can be had for $19k, possibly sell the MSM turbo setup to help pay for FM2 hardware......
Crazy, but might not be a bad way to go....
SOLD: 92 silver w/hardtop, voodoo, Kosei wheels, pine tree air freshener, and some JR stuff.
SOLD: 99 silver; the old Goodwin supercharged car with gobs of power and everything else on it.
SOLD: 95 triple black; stock
SOLD: 99 black and tan; loaded and clean; just hit 50k miles.
SOLD: 2006 Copper Mica Red; stock.
FOR SALE: 2007 Galaxy Grey Grand Touring; stock; 38k miles.
If you have the cash to start new, that might be a great way to go.
I think I might wait a bit and see what kind of results FM gets out of their car. The ECU seems to be a large hurdle in that car as it is very conservative... I know that an upgraded exhaust and intercooler yeilded like 20hp, check out www.flyinmiata.com
Chris
Call Ara in Houston at Alara Racing, he just told me tonight that he had sent three people to a dealership down there that sold them for $18K! All three bought them.If you have the cash to start new, that might be a great way to go.
If your budget is for an M1, the '94 has 8.8-1 compression, a little better for FI if not intercooling and running low boost, around 7 PSI max. I would not turn down a '95-97 if it meets the condition and color you want. With 9-1 compression you are still good for 235 HP level.
Don't believe the M1 rods and piston are better than an M2, they are NOT. The Miata rods and pistons are still the week link in forced induction, but as long as you know what your target is you can work with it.
If your target is 225 HP the '99-00 M2 has a far better flowing head, cam, lifters and intake manifold. With higher compression you can run lower boost and have more low end torque. Higher compression will limit you maximum peak HP, but the limit is already pretty high. We also can modify the intake manifold for an additional 6-8 HP and torque that you can not do on the M1. My choice is the '99-00 model.
Although the M1 has lower compression, you have to run higher boost to get near the M2 level. It really comes down to your budget and finding a car that meets your criteria. Be glad to discuss it further if you like. I prefer superchargers, but I am bias.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
Great input guys. I test drove MSM last night, and armed with the info from Ara, whom I spoke with, got the price down further. But, I was not blown away by the MSM, and as incredible as that deal seems, I think I can live without it.
I test drove a 99 with 50k miles on it at lunch today, and that car wasn't very clean and a CEL came on during the test drive. Pass again.
There are some more out there to look at.
I am only interested in FM2 or the supercharger setup that TDR / BRP sells at this point...
Any of you 1.6L FM2 guys have any input on how happy you are with that setup?
SOLD: 92 silver w/hardtop, voodoo, Kosei wheels, pine tree air freshener, and some JR stuff.
SOLD: 99 silver; the old Goodwin supercharged car with gobs of power and everything else on it.
SOLD: 95 triple black; stock
SOLD: 99 black and tan; loaded and clean; just hit 50k miles.
SOLD: 2006 Copper Mica Red; stock.
FOR SALE: 2007 Galaxy Grey Grand Touring; stock; 38k miles.
hte 99 can be turboed pretty easily now, and they tend to throw cel due to egr valve sticking iirc.
03 LS FM2ish TDR I/C
99 Disco, the go anywhere ride
The '99's are notorious for 302 and 320 CEL's. I had a CEL a few days after I bought mine. I had the cat replaced under warranty and I cleaned the throttle body and intake - haven't seen another since. The other problem they have are bad coil packs causing misfires.
If that '99 can be bargained, you might take another look at it. I would suggest doing a leak down and compression test on any car you buy. I would be glad to test it out for you since I know you are going to purchase our SC/IC package. You need a solid engine before you ever consider putting FI on it. You know you want it!
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
I love my 1.6 FM2. My dad also has 2 1.6 with different turbo set ups and they have a been great too.
They're a different beast then Gary's Beast!
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
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