looking for 94 rear rotors

anyone know where i can pick up some slotted rotors or drilled ones at? like an actually store or a person around dallas?:burnrubr:

You might try Gary at Track Dog Racing - he's local.

I don't know why you would want drilled or slotted, they aren't needed or legal in stock classes and 5 times the price. But hey, that's none of my business. Here you go: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...Rear+-+Hi-Perf

::BaHump::

idk man mine are real bad. need to replace asap. honestly i like the look of them which is a plus to me. im not all show and no go tho. lol. so they really dont make a difference in stopping? im just lookin around tho.

$18 for rear rotors at napa

Drilled rotors will crack under hard use. No one uses them on the track. They can develop fine cracks that radiate from the holes and eventually connect the holes together. Once you have cracks running between the holes, you have a serious safety issue. I've seen drilled rotors on the track that have literally come apart under hard braking. Not a pretty sight. Even on my Porsche RS America which I tracked for two years and hits 140 on the front straight at TWS, I only used flat oem style rotors, both front and rear. Drilled = disco = bling.

+1

Drilled rotors have less surface area for the brake pads to work against.

Drilled rotors have many edges that will chew away Brake pad material.

Drilled rotors have less material with which to handle heat...making them more likely to warp and crack.

And most importantly, O'Reiley Auto Parts sells OEM style rotors that have a lifetime guarantee. It will be that last set of rotors you ever pay for, because you can exchange for new rotors each time you replace your pads.

I had slotted rotors for a while and I liked them. They seemed to provide better performance in the rain, that said, I did not feel it was worth the cash to buy another set of them when I went to 1.8 brakes.

thanks for the info. guess im going to buy some new stock ones. i dont wanna wreck lol.

dont' forget that guy "Cale" who died recently in HPDE when a rotor broke and the car spun. The rotors weren't solid or drilled, but you get my point...don't do it.

I have to weigh in here. I have been running drilled rotors since the 70s.
Main reason we have always run drilled rotors is the reduction in rotating mass and unsprung weight.
An advantage on a race car is that it tends to break up the fireband from the pads and the weight. There is more surface area for heat to radiate from. All those holes have edges. Not sure that it makes that much difference though.
When the pads outgass the drilled holes tend pull the gases away.

If the rotors have the proper drill pattern (usually a variation on the one that Porsche uses) and have been properly chamfered, there is not normally a problem with cracking. I don t know much about the slotted rotors so can t speak about them.

There are drawbacks: the rotors are noisy. Go to a club race and listen to the GT1 Corvettes, Formula Fords, Atlantics or some of the other classes where they are allowed. Sounds like a dynamo. Pad wear will be increased depending on the pad. Rotor wear goes up as well.

I think the bad rap that drilled rotors get is ones that were not properly prepared.

And I have seen ventilated rotors that were abused by running the pads to the metal and grooving the rotors till they came apart.

There are several stock autos that come with them. Porsches and Corvettes come to mind. The manufacturers wouldn t do it if it were a liability.

Point is what are you trying to achieve. If you are like me then I m looking at the weight and cooling. For a street driven car that tracks occasionally, I m not sure if it gains enough to make it worthwhile. I can say that if you are at the point that you are looking for tenths of a second, it might help. I have a particular set of requirements that I am trying to achieve and reduction in weight is a high priority.

Read some of Carroll Smiths Tune to Win or some of the other books. There are good discussion about the proper way prep the brakes.

I have a couple of sets of drilled rotors that are pretty much worn paper thin that I ll bring to one of the meets so you can see what happens. They were run on the car for quite a few seasons.

The EBAY rotors might be ok if they are prepped right and are a good grade of metal. I ve been thinking about trying some myself.

Sorry didnt mean to be long winded. Old and talkative tonight.