Printable View
So in my reading around, it looks like some folks propose that the slight valve-train clatter I get on my '91 may be due to smaller oil passages, and could benefit from a change to full synthetic, specifically 0W30.
My question: Do the folks in in this area agree with this as a solution, and have you made this switch for the same reason, and experienced success?
When I bought my Miata, it made a racket. I changed the oil with dino 10w40, it went away for about 300 miles, then came back. I then switched to a 10w40 syn blend, and it went about 1000 miles before the racket was back. Next I went to full synthetic 10w40, and I could make it 1500 miles. Finally I switched to Mobile1 5w30 full synthetic, and was good for 3000 miles. I now use only the Mobile1 5w30 full synthetic and change it when it gets noisy. YMMV
Filter make a big difference too, use a WIX 51356. (NAPA Gold is the same)
Turbo w/ trackdays, Amsoil 10w-40 and Mazda long oil filter here, ~5K miles before hearing any ticking.
Chris
Amsoil 10w40 and I crank the radio up really loud. I can go 100k before I go totally deaf from the radio noise. ;)
5w30 synthetic and mazda oil filter fixed mine.
Thanks for the feedback on this. So any idea why the 0w30 is recommended by folks on the point board (that's what you all call it, right?)? Seems like it would be very thin, but maybe that's the point? I bought it, but I haven't poured it yet.
Dunno. But I think the miata knowledge base on our board is greater than that of the pointy board. Or in other words, I would put more weight in the advice of some of the guys here than over there. And I wouldn't use 0w on any engine of mine; at least not in the sunbelt where temps below freezing are rare.
Well, as I mentioned the other night, while I'm sure many of the people are correct in the other forum, they don't necessarily have their cars in the same conditions that I do... so I'd trust what's coming out of this group more because the experience is more directly applicable.
I'm all for making the switch to synthetic tomorrow, would just like to pour the ideal weight the first time around. Looks like 5w30 may be a better way to go.
I would suggest figuring out what weight oil your car likes best then switch it to synthetic once you got the viscosity figured out. 5-30 is pretty broad and you should be ok with it but if 5-20 works then you don't need that extra thickness. 0w is the thinnest oil obviously and would provide the least protection on a cold engine which, ironically, is where the most wear usually occurs, at start up before oil is distributed. But in sub freezing climates a thinner oil makes less resistance for cold cranking start-ups.
I have sent two samples of oil from my car to a reputable lab in Indiana called Blackstone Laboratories. They told me they could not discern organic from synthetic and that the synthetics do indeed last longer but don't actually lubricate "better". So if you don't want to change oil often then I would suggest synths once you figure what weight you want. Then, if you have a healthy engine and you drive you car without lots of short trips or extremely dusty conditions, I wouldn't be suprised if you could go 10k miles between synth changes. My dino Valvoline 5-20 can go 7000 according to Blackstone but I change it anyway after every other track event; about three times a year.
I'm not likely to take such a detailed approach to my oil choice. At this point, I'm concerned about start ups sure, but am hoping to address that valve-train noise that I'm getting once the engine is warm. While many have said it's not particularly harmful, it's damn distracting. :D
I'll be honest here...
I use and have always used Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W30. Out of the 3.5 years of ownership of my car, 2.0 has been used to deliver pizza at some point.
And I change it out at the guaranteed 15,000 miles Mobil 1 says. When I took off the valve cover for the TB change @ 100k, it looked perfect.
I have yet to see an early NA that doesn't clatter for a few seconds after a hot start up. ::2Cents::Quote:
Originally Posted by Version3
Hard to go wrong with Mobil-1 5W-30 too.
Royal Purple 5W-30.
5w30 Mobile 1, and the Napa filter that Rogue recommended, and the valvetrain is much quieter now. Even my cold/warm startups are quiet. Amazingly cheap fix, and it was almost time to change the oil anyway. :D
Well that's good news! Not to be a negative ninny, but the question is, for how long? mwuhahaha! ::Rant::Quote:
Originally Posted by Version3
Ah agree, it can and probably will come back... I'm hoping that it coincides with the life of the oil as has been the case with others. I'll take any improvement at 178K miles.
Nails, I don't want to start a battle over this but your interpretation is almost completely wrong. ;) The "thinness" of the 0W at startup is still thicker than at operating temps. I could write a book on the subject, but I haven't got the time other resident experts have. It's taken an hour and a half just to compose my short answer. Stupid dayjob!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nails
Yeah I stated that wrong. The oil is thinner at operating temperature hence most recommend draining oil after warming the engine up. I meant to compare thicknesses or viscosities at comparable temps either cold 40 degrees Celsius or hot 100 degrees Celsius. Thanks Darron65
+1 I swear my runs better with the Mobil 1 10w30 extended performance. The last oil change I switched to Valvoline Maxlife 10w30 and I can tell the difference on startup.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider