Well it was bound to happen sooner or later :(

After being the second owner of the car since September 2003, at 99,935 miles the original 1990 back window cracked while putting it down Monday night after school. I've wanted to cut the window out and replace with tinted vinyl since I got the car (this is my first/only car that I've ever had that has not tint), and this might finally be the reason I need. But knowing how much work is involved, and knowing the rain rail is 22 years old too, I might just bite the bullet and get a new cheap top. I don't drive it in the rain, and don't really ever put the top up, so an eBay special has my name all over it.

http://www.guapozx.com/users/dogpile/crack.JPG

And the yellow on the window is dust - my back window is actually still damn near crystal clear after all that time.

Same happened to my '92 recently. Strip of duct tape was my fix :) My window is opaque and yellow though.

Gabkwong has the oldest original OEM soft top I know of on his 1999. He takes very good care of it and looks like new.

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Originally Posted by motorollow

Gabkwong has the oldest original OEM soft top I know of on his 1999. He takes very good care of it and looks like new.

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Mine has his beat by 9 years - original 1990 top. It's an early 1990 too, but not 1989 early. I did nothing to prevent this top from damage in the nearly 10 years I've owned the car. There is a single smaller-than-a-BB sized hole right behind the driver's side latch, but that's it, it cleans up to look brand new, window included. I was a bit upset at first, but what can you expect from a 22 year old piece of vinyl? Especially since I never unzipped it to lower it, and usually lowered/raised it from the driver's seat.

I did the cheap ebay top on my 00 and it was nice. I didn't spring for the rain rail, but I did buy some black caulk and a foam strip :D

Does the eBay one you got unzip? I only ever unzipped mine to crawl in when I'd intentionally lock my keys in it. I haven't looked at tops in well over a year, but I distinctly remember all the <$200 ones not having a zipper. As useful as the zipper was to me, it's really not a feature I care to justify the $100 price jump (again, going from what I've seen last I looked). Do you happen to know the name of the vendor you bought it from? Might as well go to someone that I "know" will be good.

Over the years I have purchased 4 tops from The Auto Top Shop, [email protected], ask for Bill Gheen, 800-764-7617. They list on ebay so you can see what they have.

If you haven't done one before, I recommend getting another top frame and put the new top on that one and then doing a frame swap. Makes it less hectic (especially if you need your car) since it takes about 7 - 8 hours elapsed time to do. The frame swap will only take about an hour. If you need a spare top frame, you can have one of mine and then give me your old one when you are done.

I didn't get the zipper. I bought mine from the same guy mildensteve recommended.

Thanks, guys.

Steve, I'll let you know on the borrowing a frame once I pick a top. It's not my only car, so I don't need it, but I know it would make me get around to it a lot quicker. I don't think I'll even bother until after the wedding though, so mid-June maybe.

Whenever you are ready. The old top frame is going nowhere... unless the wife says to get it out of the bedroom.

Shower curtain window is not a bad fix. I did this to my green car when it was a daily about 5-years ago and that top is still water-tight on Quan's Mom's car.

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Originally Posted by mr brg

Shower curtain window is not a bad fix. I did this to my green car when it was a daily about 5-years ago and that top is still water-tight on Quan's Mom's car.

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Details?

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Originally Posted by p4R4d0x

Details?

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I'd use tinted clear vinyl from the fabric store, the blue tube of "marine adhesive" from Lowes', and magnets of possible.

1. Trim the old window out leaving the thick part as a frame
2. Cut the shape of the new window no less than 4" oversized
3. Scuff and clean the inside surface (I used isopropyl goodness)
4. Glue it in on the inside with marine adhesive stuff
5. Then creatively use magnets to apply pressure to both sides (I made a frame out of 1"x2"s and screwed them together alone the glued surface, punching 8 holes in the soft-top through the glue)
6. Then get some clear, soft silicone in a tube and seal-it up since you didn't get even coverage with the glue.

I did all of this in about 3-hours, then sealed it the next day and tested it with a hose. It never leaked and I plan to do the same thing on my daily since that window is turning brown. I even drove it through an Oklahoma severe weather spring and it never leaked. My only regret was using clear vinyl instead of the tinted stuff.

That has been my plan for years, but with tinted vinyl meant for boat windows. Still not sure if I want to bother or not though. Been playing with the idea of a new top and cutting the window out in favor of a tinted piece anyway (still no clue why nobody offers a tinted rear window after all these years), especially if I pick up a cheap top.

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Originally Posted by mr brg

blah blah

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Cool, thanks! I will most likely do this instead of a full replacement.

In for Hello Kitty shower-curtain window.

The ebay store mentioned above is where I got the new top for my 99.
Very basic but does the job. I like my Robbins on my 01 better.
If you go with the ebay top, be sure to read all the directions as they are slightly different than OEM and Robbins tops.
The material seems to be pretty good quality. I can bring it over sometime if you want to look at it.

http://ecommerce.mossmotors.com/p/mi...bins/909-610-M
This ^^ is the Robbins equivalent. IMO the design looks better than the ebay top, only $189

I have a glass (not plastic) rear window, no defog, that you can try to glue in. I kept it in case I ever wanted to do the same. $10 and it is yours to break... try.

Thanks for that link, Brandon! I know Robbins, and it's the same price. Good looking out.