Overheat Solution!!! Maybe.

OK, I have a little solution for the summertime over heat problems.

You can jump the TFA and GND wires in the DIAGNOSTIC control. This will make the fans come on when the key enters the ON position and keep them on regardless of temperature.

I already have my fans wired in parallel so essentially both fans will be running all the time. When then outside temps come down you can take the jumper wire out. I use 20 Guage SOLID core wire to perform the jump available at Radioshack because it holds it shape and has shielding.

I will give you a road report over the next week to confirm any drop in temps.

I am currently running 104 to 108 degrees celcius in stop and go traffic - my fans usually come on at 100 degrees celcius. I am hoping that if I can prevent the radiator core from becoming heat soaked, I can stay ahead of the cooling problem.

If this doesn't work, I am punching two holes in the hood and venting using cheap vents.

I believe the root cause of my problem is the unshielded turbo and downpipe.

Hey, and somebody throw me some Karma (Spectacular Aura) points, I'm running low.

On my '97, I've noticed that both of my fans will come on even is the a/c is off. However, they come on separately. It seems if the temps continue to rise with the first fan, the second fan (a/c) will come on. I'm not sure if this is specific to the Link I'm using, or possibly the new chip. Anyway, I have the same thought in trying to get ahead of the heat soak, so I've got my fans set to come on at '94 deg. So far it seems to be working.

Staying ahead of the game is important. Also and I think I mentioned this to you off line, cut the sides out of the belly pan will improve cooling, I do this mod on all the cars we install FI. Use automotive grade foam and aluminum tape to seal off air looses. I assume you are not running a stock radiator with this FI?

The other question about when the fans come on in stock configuration is correct. The main fan comes on around 180 and the A/C fan comes on around 230 when not running the A/C. Again, good to stay ahead of the game by having the fans come on early. You can put a manual switch in the car, we have one mounted under the hood for track days and dyno days.

Gary

I believe with the link you can assign the temp the fans come on. I can't remember what else jumping 10 and grnd does but you may want to look into this. If you are using an after market radiator make sure you seal the fans to the back of the radiator with some foam as air tends to take the path of least resistance.

The NA version of the link needs to have a seperate wire run for LINK controlled fans. The NBs can just be set in the LINK. I will probably do this since I already have the ecu out from the wideband installation.

I am sure the fans come on at 212 for my car since I can feel the voltage drop. I might have wired them in parallel incorrectly, but regardless, I'm keeping them on full on until october.

Gary, I might try the side holes. I am a little reluctant since I just spent a weekend trying to get the belly pan to fit (over, under, sideways) through the FM intercooler. Did I mention I like your design better. :thumrigh:

So far, Really good results with the jumper solution for over heating. My ride home stayed below 212 -which is a miracle!