Cam Wrench

Does anyone have any advice for fixing the camshafts in position while you undo the sprocket bolts? I've discovered that my cam seals are leaking, need to undo the bolts but my adjustable wrench isn't up to the job; I'm not convinced that a nice big wrench ($30 from Sears!!) will do the job either. Trying to think of all sorts of elaborate ways I could pin the whole thing in position, but if anyone knows of a better way...

btw, I'm not planning on taking all the covers off the timing belt area, just the top one, as I reckon by clamping the belt to one sprocket, taking the other off, and then vice versa, I can match the sprockets against paint marks without having to do the whole go to TDC then rotate 20 times palava (and save around 2 days work). Has anyone tried this?

Zip tie the belt to both sprockets and as you take one off just let it flop, but still zip tied securely in 2-3 spots. As for getting the cam sprocket off, there is a spot on the actual cam that is shaped for a wrench. I am sorry that I cant remember the size I wanna say 17 or 19mm. You can put the ratchet on the bolt for the cam gear and the wrench on the hex spot on the cam. A twist will get it broken loose. It does take some force though.

I just use a couple of big assed crescent wrenches... Works fine as long as you keep the big pointy end of them towards the inside so you don't scrape the head.

RJ

If I'm understanding you correctly, you don't wan't to have anything misalign as you remove the cam gears to change the cam seals.

The only way I could see this being done without disassembling everything would be to put wrenches on the flat wrench fittings on the cams. Crescent wrenches would work. Make sure they cross over each other and then clamp them together. This "should" hold the cams in place as you remove the gears.

One problem I see is I think you will need to disassemble much off the front motor just to get to the t-belt tensioner. At this point you've pretty much have all the work of a t-belt change.

This is EXACTLY why I recommend new cam and crank seals when doing a t-belt change.

I have a cute little tool that slids in between the sprockets to keep them from moving. I doubt it will do much good, though, if you're removing the sprockets.......

You're welcome to borrow it if you like.

At least he can line up the sprokets when done with the seals... those little things look like they'd work great...

Cheers guys - it looks like I'll have to pay up for the giant wrench (d'oh!). I'm going to see how it goes with the zip-tie thang plus immobilising the cams with locked wrenches. When I did the timing belt (and SHOULD have done the cam seals :( ) I clamped the belt onto one sprocket whilst grunting it onto the other - that worked well.

Guess it won't get done until next Sunday now...

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Originally Posted by Kiliwizz

Cheers guys - it looks like I'll have to pay up for the giant wrench (d'oh!). I'm going to see how it goes with the zip-tie thang plus immobilising the cams with locked wrenches. When I did the timing belt (and SHOULD have done the cam seals :( ) I clamped the belt onto one sprocket whilst grunting it onto the other - that worked well.

Guess it won't get done until next Sunday now...

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I still wonder how you are going to remove the belt without loosening the tensioner. :confused: To loosen the tensioner you have to remove the timing covers.

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Originally Posted by black roadster

I still wonder how you are going to remove the belt without loosening the tensioner. :confused: To loosen the tensioner you have to remove the timing covers.

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Arent those all just a few bolts? I think you are right about the tensioner, but it is too much trouble to remove the covers is it? I cant remember, but because of the way it seperates it seems like you wouldnt have to deal with the radiator. Maybe just the acc. belts.

Not sure - don't you have to start taking all the other belts off to get at the lower covers?

That is what I was saying. You have to take the accessory belts off to get the lower cover off. But it might be easier (or even make it possible) by taking the covers off. If for some reason the timing gets messed up because the tension that is placed on the belts moves something, you are going to be kicking yourself.

Thinking about it, you're right - it's not just a case of maintaining the relative alignment of the two cams, but I also need to allow that the crank might move, too - and I'd not know unless I stripped it all down.

So this moves from a half day to a full day. Oh well. It does need doing... what is today a slow dribble will tomorrow be a faster one! I could see the track of oil down the backing plate from both seals.

Once I've done it - does anyone know of a good place for engine steam cleaning? I know most people like the simple green thing, but I've got oil all over lower engine bits that would take me and my toothbrush forever.

It won't be that bad with the front of the motor stripped down. Pull the radiator for easier access. You need to drain it anyway.

It's not that hard to take off the other covers. Before loosening the cambelt tensioner pulley, take a couple of long slender wedges and shove them one on each side of the crank so that the loosened belt won't slip position at the crank cog. Make sure you have some type of mark on each cam pulley to register the location of the cambelt. Then loosen the belt tensioner, then carefully slide the cambelt off the cam pulleys. Remove each pulley using a big-ass adjustible wrench on the flats of the camshaft being careful not to let it bang against the edge of head casting. The pulley bolts are set with a locking compound, so it may take 2 people and a cheater bar to break them loose the first time (pneumatic impact wrench works wonders). When reassemblying, make sure to match up the registration marks on the cam pulleys and belt. Reset the belt tensioner, and remove the wedges. ::Flag::