Tech day at TtT's house April 25th

What kind of pads did you get, by the way?

Hawk HP+? FTW?

Since you're doing some easy brake work, maybe I'll do a brake flush in the afternoon. I can do it myself at home but there's nobody cooking burgers there.

I placing OEM/s back on for now and saving the Hawk + that are on it now for track day. Got a suggestion for a better track pad?

Come on over Darron and I'll feed ya

I use the Hawk HP+ every day. If you can handle the dust and squeal, they are a damned good pad.

I think Gary likes the Hawk Blues for pure track use - I wouldn't use them on the street though.

I like Carbotech's XP10 and XP8 compounds for the track, but I only use them on the street driving to and from the track.

I looked into Blues for this season, since they're pretty popular with the Miata crowd. I was suprised to find that they're maximum effective temperature range is only 1000 degrees - that's less than several newer "dual use" pad compounds on the market!

Personally, I think there are better track only choices out there besides the Blues, especially for heavier or boosted cars. Cobalt Friction makes some very nice pads, but they're pricey.

I am using Carbotech's XP8/AX6 for street/ax/track on my RX-8. Beside the horrible squeal at low speed :banghead:, they work fine from first stop in the morning to repeat beating on the track.

They do dust alot, but it's quite easy to wash off. And they are supposed to be easy on rotors, we shall see on that....

That's the combo I used last season. Never had any problems with them, but decided to try the XP10/XP8 combo this year.

I'm gonna try to make it, probably do the shifter boot replacements if that's not too involved. Are those the types of parts you need to go to Miata for or can you get them on fleabay.

You can order them from Trussville Mazda or buy them at the dealer. They aren't that expensive and I can help you replace them. Make sure you get both of them.

are you going to have air? wondering so i know if i should bring air tools... makes things faster!:rambo:

Jonathan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DrpepperTECH!

are you going to have air? wondering so i know if i should bring air tools... makes things faster!:rambo:

Jonathan

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Just pick up one of these on the way out... I'm sure Tim won't mind! ::Banana::

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tim the Teacher

You can order them from Trussville Mazda or buy them at the dealer. They aren't that expensive and I can help you replace them. Make sure you get both of them.

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I'm not worried about it, it doesn't look that hard. It's just that I'm new here and kind of sensitive. (especially about my weight) I didn't want someone to lay the smack laid down on me like Juano Tejano got. Not sure I could survive.::BigWhack

shifter boot replacements are easy, at max a 20 minute job if you can't find tools etc.

edit- o btw here are the instructions
This job should take about 30 minutes. The only tools needed are a #10 socket, a Philips screwdriver, a knife, and three ounces of gearbox oil (75W90).

1. Order two new shift boots (lower and upper) from Roebuck @ $15/each.
2. Unscrew the shifter knob.
3. Remove the plastic console from between the seats. There are five screws, one on each side of the front, one under the ashtray, and two by the fuel tank release knob. Be careful when removing as there are wires attached near the passenger front side. Unhook these wires.
4. Remove the isolation on top of the shifter.
5. Remove the four bolts (#10) holding the upper shift boot. Remove the old boot.
6. Put the car in neutral.
7. Remove the three bolts (#10) holding the lower shift boot.
8. Lift the shifter (and lower boot) out.
9. Remove the lower shift boot from the shift lever. You may have use a knife to cut it off. Look at the new one before cutting off the old (you don't want to cut off too much.)
10. Put a little bit of gearbox oil on the shift lever and slide the new seal on. It goes on VERY hard. FYI - There is a nylon o-ring that needs to be put back on BEFORE the lower seal goes on.
11. If there is any oil in the turret (it was dry in my 90), use a turkey baster to remove it.
12. Refill the turret with 3 fluid oz of new oil (gearbox oil). This will fill it up about half way.
13. Replace the shift lever. Notice the indent on the front (on the ball portion). This indent needs to line up with the front of the car.
14. Replace the upper shift boot.
15. Replace the plastic console

Drive around the block and see if it shifts any easier.

One additional step if you are married.

16. Go buy a new turkey baster. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aalvarez04

shifter boot replacements are easy, at max a 20 minute job if you can't find tools etc.

edit- o btw here are the instructions
This job should take about 30 minutes. The only tools needed are a #10 socket, a Philips screwdriver, a knife, and three ounces of gearbox oil (75W90).

1. Order two new shift boots (lower and upper) from Roebuck @ $15/each.
2. Unscrew the shifter knob.
3. Remove the plastic console from between the seats. There are five screws, one on each side of the front, one under the ashtray, and two by the fuel tank release knob. Be careful when removing as there are wires attached near the passenger front side. Unhook these wires.
4. Remove the isolation on top of the shifter.
5. Remove the four bolts (#10) holding the upper shift boot. Remove the old boot.
6. Put the car in neutral.
7. Remove the three bolts (#10) holding the lower shift boot.
8. Lift the shifter (and lower boot) out.
9. Remove the lower shift boot from the shift lever. You may have use a knife to cut it off. Look at the new one before cutting off the old (you don't want to cut off too much.)
10. Put a little bit of gearbox oil on the shift lever and slide the new seal on. It goes on VERY hard. FYI - There is a nylon o-ring that needs to be put back on BEFORE the lower seal goes on.
11. If there is any oil in the turret (it was dry in my 90), use a turkey baster to remove it.
12. Refill the turret with 3 fluid oz of new oil (gearbox oil). This will fill it up about half way.
13. Replace the shift lever. Notice the indent on the front (on the ball portion). This indent needs to line up with the front of the car.
14. Replace the upper shift boot.
15. Replace the plastic console

Drive around the block and see if it shifts any easier.

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Did you actually write this or just copy paste it?

Real men don't use air tools....but if you want to buy me a compressor it's all good:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maan1986

Did you actually write this or just copy paste it?

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Looks like a C&P from the ::Batman:: board.

Samm is correct. http://www.miata.net/garage/shiftboot.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tim the Teacher

Real men don't use air tools....but if you want to buy me a compressor it's all good:D

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Get paid by flag rate and trust me! You gots ta have the air o you aint makin' money!::2Dollar:

::Bunny::Don't judge my rabbit!

:flower:<---- your rims!

So far the attendees are:

Hudson Hawk
jsforrest
blackzx
moosemonkey
Darron65
DrPepperTech

Weather forecast says 82 and no rain so far. Got the rear rotors delivered Friday so all I'm missing is the new pads. I will have plenty of burgers if you want to just come and hang out....