Looking around on the intermess, it looks like STANPART was the standard part spares division of Triumph. Motors with that marking were replacement engines for the Spitfire and Midget. Is that what you are finding Titus?
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Looking around on the intermess, it looks like STANPART was the standard part spares division of Triumph. Motors with that marking were replacement engines for the Spitfire and Midget. Is that what you are finding Titus?
Yep... But sadly, the nice cast number on the side of the block turns up nothing. The number that matters for identifying the specs one the engine was stamped behind the distributor. That number is so worn down, I can only make out the first letter of F. That does confirm that it is from a Spitfire or Midget, but doesn't get me any closer:Quote:
Originally Posted by creek
FC (HE=9.0:1, LE= 7.0:1), 1147cc, Spitfire MkI
FC50001, 1147cc, Spitfire MkII
FD (HE=9.0:1, LE=7.5:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIII USA
FE (8.5:1 for emission controlled), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIII
FH (9.0:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIV,
FK (8.0:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIV USA
FM (9:1-world, 7.5:1-US, 9:1-US in 1976), 1492cc, Spitfire 1500 (1973-80)
FL, 1492cc, Spitfire MKIV/1500 Sweden
FP (9:1-world, 7.5:1-US, 9:1-US in 1976), 1492cc, 1500 MG Midget (1975-79)
Spitfire motor AND transmission possibly? ...
Might want to research the methods they use to raise serial numbers on handguns that have been filed down. It may allow you to read the number.
I was thinking the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonHawk
Just did a quick google search. As long as it is stamped into the metal then you can use a metal etching solution to bring out the number. If it is cast into the piece then that method will not work.
How did the project go? Did the transplant heart fit into the patient?
I think that it is a different process since on a hand gun the numbers are ingraved and on the car they are raised. Not sure how to re-raise a number once it is worn off. There might be a way, but, I have never heard of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonHawk
Engine is pulled. Now working on removing stubborn steering components to make more room for the longer Miata engine. They are caked in 50 years of rust and don't want to come out too easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandor
That is nothing that a BFH and some liquid wrench can not fix. I personally like the BFH angle the best. I have been known to use the liquid wrench more often in my old aga LOL. That 16 LBS sledge is getting to feel more and more like 60 LBS., every year.
if theres something stuck and you have a very big aircompressor, i can bring my gun. its an air hog but with 1000ftlbs, its pretty strong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAM!
You have that new snap on 1/2 like me? I just found out they have green and orange available! I bought the new 1/2 and 3/8 2 months ago and they have been amazing, I use the 3/8 for almost everything, I've even taken flywheel and crank pully bolts off!
Actually, what is stuck right now is not a nut. It is a tie rod... nut is off, but it won't slide out. I have hit it with an air hammer and deadblow countless times, but it won't budge. Strange thing is that it isn't seized... it will rotate, just wont slide off.Quote:
Originally Posted by BAM!
I have an old Snap On IM6500HP that has yet to fail me. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStig
Get a bigger hammer!!!
If you are trying to break it loose from the wheel axle assembly, I have one of the wedges for breaking it loose. They are hard to get off and when they do finally come loose it sounds like you broke the asasembly. I also have a pitman arm puller if you need to borrow it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus
Beautiful iron duke! I've got the same one with a gold glitter cover lol.
All you should have to do is hit it with a hammer on the leading edge of the female potion. and that should sqeeze the eye and push out the rod. That is how they are designed to work on the older cars that I am used to working on.