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I only vaguely understand knockback. The basic idea is that some combination of the rotor, hub, disc bend a bit while under cornering load. This movement pushes the pad/piston back a bit. Then next time you go for the pedal, the piston has farther to travel so you get a softer/longer pedal for the next application of the brake.
Worn-out bearing races let the rotor flop around, pushing the pistons into the calipers.Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonieGT
While originally designed for dirt-track, both the DTC-30 and DTC-60 are great track pads. (DTC = Dirt Track Circuit IIRC) The big difference it the temp range scales up for the DTC-60. The DTC-30 are temperature rated from 100° - 1200°F The DTC-60 are temperature rated from 400° - 1600°F. Hawk doesn't make the DTC-60 if you have Sport brakes. The DTC-30 are a great compromise and more street friendly.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
Nice try.Quote:
Originally Posted by black roadster
Dynamic Torque Control
Well I got the other parts right! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by slowchildmiata
http://www.isitlowt.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by black roadster
Yes, you got the 30 and 60 right ;). I actually used to think it meant Dirt Track Compound once upon a time... :)
i havent had the problem with my miata, but on my boss 302 i had hell with the brakes. the first time out i over heated the fluid, went to wilwood dot 4 and the next time out i was running HP+ pads and over heated the pads. moved to a better pad (RP2 XP8 combo) and had problems with the fluid again, next time i used better dot 4 fluid and finally cleared it up. if the brakes go soft and come back at all it cant be air. once air is in there it wont leave until you bleed the brakes.
if you over heat the pads, the pedal will come back unless you overheat the pads to the point that they crumble. i have seen that happen to several people at ECR. Not all dot 4 fluids are equal either, i had problems with a couple brands and then moved to brembo lcf 600+. its about $20 per 500ml, but it wont fade and doesn't compress when hot.
i had a problem with some wilwood dot 4 fluid where the brakes didn't fade (had the same stopping power), but the distance where the pedal engaged the brakes would change because the fluid compressed more when hot. i get the impression that your brakes came back at least a bit between the fade, is that correct? if so id say you were overheating the pads. i can tell you from experience if you are moving at ECr, HP+ and HPS pads aren't ideal. you probably don't even need to be moving all that fast in heavy traffic like you had at ECR if you have poor ventilation to the brakes to begin with. do you have any brake cooling?
while we are talking about brake issues, is there any cooling benefit to be had from cutting the dust shields off the rear brakes on these cars?
Master cylinder was the culprit. I'm sure half of you will yell at me, but I went with DTC30's. I didnt get the 60's for two reasons: 1) I want the pads to work on the street, and 2) I have only just begun to overheat the HP+, the 30's give me an extra 3-400 degrees of temperature range. Should be good until my skill goes up. Maybe I'll get 60's next time...
I am very happy with the Sport breaks that Track Dog (you)installed on my NA. I am currently running HP+ all around and have plenty of break for my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by black roadster