I have read with the factory boost controller you get boost cut at 10.5 PSI with the factory ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magma
Printable View
I have read with the factory boost controller you get boost cut at 10.5 PSI with the factory ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magma
For mazdaspeed specific information, go to mazda-speed.com With the stock ECU you are pretty much limited to 321cc injectors and about 11psi boost. With exhaust/dp and intake, you can expect about 200-210 rwhp. Not much tuning can be done with stock ECU (besides BEGi refla$h)
^ what he said
I still get a boost cut at WOT above 6250, that can be bypassed with a simple resistor, but I like the safety factorQuote:
Originally Posted by dfwcouple
200 rwhp is more than enough for me to get back and forth to work, I have also been look at the BEGI reflash for a drive-ability at a minimum, also raising the hard-cut rev limit would be nice as well. I do not understand why you would have a hard cut at the peak of your powerband, I would think you would want it a little past it. I also think first gear in the car is useless, even in a factory car it is still way to short. I have read about people running the 3.6 ratio really liking the way the car performs on the highway, also making 1st gear usable.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDmiata
I can see that being a good thing, especially with stock injectors, I have read that with the BEGI reflash you can change the size of injectors that can be used in the car, but they can only up the boost to 12 PSI for a $100, which does not seem to be that much over stock. There are also aftermarket EBCs that will alow you to up the boost, but I am not sure of the safety of these to stop over boost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magma
Max efficiency of the stock turbo (unmodified) is around 12psi, more than that and you are just heating the air. The resistor mod is easy to do, I have the resistors sitting on my tool box when I took them off to sell my car. On very cold mornings running just under 10.5 psi I would overboost to about 11psi. Rather than the car falling on it's face when I needed it, I put the resistor in. My car with stock ECU and injectors was ok running up to 11psi according to wideband, not all MSM will do that (you must verify with wideband). The old school FM MBC would allow a small amount of overboosting in very cold weather, the Hallman MBC I had installed was rock solid ($10 MBC vs. $80 MBC).
My next mod after I get the engine back with the forged internals will be a complete exhaust with turbo, and new turbo tubing, IC, and intake. The only thing I can not move away from is the factory ECU, but I can modify sensors, reflash, and other things to get my desired needs. At present time I only quest 200 RWHP, but that may change after a while as well. Thanks for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDmiata
OK, had the car fixed was running good for a stock MSM then the clutch slave cylinder went out during rush hour traffic. This would not have been that bad if I was on a clear highway, but stop and go traffic, not a lot of fun talking about the clutch pedal was soft all the way to the floor. Got that fixed, no issue, about 1.5 hours to replace and bleed the clutch system, why is their always on bolt that is hell.
Got the car back on the road for about a week, lost all oil presure, the new build was not even broke in yet, what the hell. Well the I called the mechanic shop that built the engine, he had no problem honoring the 2 year warranty he put on the engine, hell he even towed it to his shop for free. "https://www.facebook.com/pages/Running-Performance/291723137524543" He tore the engine down, he could not believe this pump failed in such a short time. Well hope to have the car back this week, sure hope my luck improves.
Shit I was thinking about a few go fast bits for the car, but if it keeps this up my wife it going to say the only thing that car is going to do is go for sale, fast.
I don't think that is going to happen, the car is fun as hell, even if it won't keep up with my kids grandpa "my dad" in his srt8 challenger.
Also I have been reading about the darn ecu in this car, what the hell can you do with this thing to get more torque and HP and still pass emissions. The only place that can reflash the thing is BEGI, I have to pass emissions, and I really don't want to swap the ECU and injectors every time I need an emissions test, darn obd2. What in the hell are my options, I have read mixed reviews on the BEGI reflash, the most concerning thing I saw was lean AFR at 12 PSI.
Help will be needed, would like a little more fun, don't think I would every be able to keep up with that srt8.
You only need to pass emissions once a year.
The problem is starting with a MSM in the first place. Granted it is the best looking NB but the mechanics are a nightmare. I'm not a MSM guru by any means but it seems they fight people every step of the way when if you want to modify them. Getting a non-OBDII car or even a 1999-2000 if you want to stay NB and boosting it will provide better results than trying to modify the MSM. ::2Cents::
Standalone ECU if you want to stick with your MSM, then swap back the oem ecu for inspection time.