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The 7/8 bar on my NA did wonders for my oversteer.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
At least with my style of driving, I have a very nuetral car with FM 7/8 bar in front, stock in back, same tire pressures, and all shocks (Koni Sport) at the same stiffness.
YMMV, especially if you have more power than my 1.6. You are welcome to try my car on a fun run if you let me know up front so I don't pack it up.
what tire pressures do you usually run Jerrett?
Yeah, POS just doesn't drive hard enough to really stress the front bar... :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
I tore the swaybar mounts out of the frame on my '99 after a couple of seasons with a 1" FM front bar. I replaced my stock mounting brackets with the Mazdacomp/AWR Racing brackets and never had another issue. As far as I know, my car is still being autocrossed in Houston with these brackets (which are SCCA Stock legal, once you modify them for clearance). The only thing to beware of with these brackets is that you'll need to either trim the lower radiator supports or the brackets themselves to prevent interference on the NBs.
lugnutjon also tore his mounts out of the frame on his 10AE with a 1" FM bar. He had the stock mounts rewelded, them tore them a second time. After that he ordered a set of the AWR brackets and had no more problems.
This was actually a pretty common problem on the NBs when autocrossed heavily on R compounds, POS's experience notwithstanding. In fact, it was so common that the SCCA issued a clarification specifically addressing this issue, because it affected a large percentage of the top cars. Prior to the ruling removing the old brackets (which are plug welded to the unibody) or welding them back together was technically illegal.
Unfortunately, this bracket isn't the weak link on the NBs. The problem is with the flimsy piece of bent sheetmetal that these brackets bolt to. That piece tends to fatigue due to the cyclical loading of the sway bar. Over time and with enough loading it will tear, usually starting on the inside.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm
I personally found that my 93LE didn't have any oversteer at all and was very neutral to start. I did find the front bar cut down on body roll and helped the turn in become much faster/sharper. I run a similar setup to jrj512 (7/8" front bar, azenis, but different shocks)
I broke both of mine. One was cracked and the other was cracked and broken.
I run 27 psi cold. YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
Luckily, Brett does not run R-comps. However, Brett, if you ever switch to R-comps (I do not reccomend doing so anytime soon), you might consider Iain's advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by altiain
Jerrett you only say I shouldn't run R comps because you know I'd beat you.
:)
Ok well, I guess I will get the RB front bar without bracing then - or should I get it later?
And I hear the Azenis gain 5psi or so when they get hot, and I hear they still require a spray down every 2 runs...but I never see anyone out there spraying tires, so is that grassroots motorsports bs? Or does it just not matter that much.
They will gain PSI with heat (driving), but that's why you check the pressure between runs or every few runs and let some air out. Some guys spray them, most don't. The Azeni 615's don't get near as greasy as the old 215's did.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
Hey I won the dixie tour, oh wait that wasn't me..... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by altiain
I also think the collars help keep everything in place, did you have the spacer collars on your bar?
Andy H. had a post on miata.net talking about the importance of the spacers and the previous owner of the POSIII had the spacers on the car.
YMMV
I'm running a 1.125" hollow RB on my car with shimmed (washers as spacers) front brackets. I didn't realize the problem until Mr. Hollis talked about it.
So, for my skill level, should I really worry about spraying them?
And just to keep the ball rolling...
How long do the Azenis typically last on a daily driven car?
So do those shims do basically the same job as the "hardware only" bracing kit from TDR; the aluminum blocks for the mounts.
No, as your skill level increases, maybe. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
A year dependent on how many AX you run in a given season. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
Link please.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
Is there any information on the differences in performance between RB 1.125" hollow bar and the FM 1" solid bar at the various settings? If I am reading things right, it looks like you can get the front and rear SET from FM for less than just the RB front bar. What makes the RB worth the extra coin? Does the RB offer equal stiffness at a lower weight or something?
I know it does weigh less.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus
And it's red.
Here's a link to those hardware only mounts btw:
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...ybar_brace.htm
90-05 Sway Bar Brace Hardware Kit Only
Darren65 has been on his for over a year, I think. Mine don't last too long because of the amount of racing I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcreider
http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/ they have a cool spreasheet deal, looks like it's taylored to the NA. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus
I highly doubt mine will last a year. I probably could have gotten 8 months before I went bald on the GForce Sports.
So I'd guess 5 or so with autocrosses and street driving every day.