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Tach started dipping randomly, then went to zero. Then car died. No sputter, no start. Dead.
Fired up a half hour later no problems. Went another 6 runs or so, then same story. This time no start.
Checked grounds. Checked for loose wires around cas & coil pack. Its getting spark. Were stumped.
Dead fuel pump maybe...but what about the dropping tach??
Any help would be appreciated.
Also checked MAF(afm? Can't remember) but it doesn't even fire so that can't be it.
Going to try swapping the fuel relay as soon as one of the other miatas gets off course.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggerachi
That's what mo'03 did when the cam angle sensor died.
What happens when you jump GND and F/P at the diagnostic box? Will the car start?
If that does not start the car, get under the dash to the FP relay and jump the red/blue with the black wire. This will run the pump so you cannot let the car sit with the key at ACC. Either all the way off or running.
On second though, try jumping blue/red with wht/red using a 30a fuse.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7...elpumprhb5.jpg
I've only done this on a 1.6 wired car and my fuel pump relay set-up is different. If it still won't start, the FP is dead.
Thanks, ill try that tomorrow.
Rogue seems to think its the CAS as well.
The car is parked at MW, our towing solution didn't work out so well. Anyone have a CAS I can borrow/ buy if it fixes the problem?
If you have spark, why do you think the CAS is bad? If you have spark, you have a working CAS...although it may be sketchy. Either way, its one of the two.
This is a 1994 car, right?
I think CAS is bad because Steven Boyd told me so haha. Really I would think fuel pump but its the tach needle dipping that has us scratching our heads. That's what sounds like cas. I agree it has spark so it should but I really don't know...
Edit: Now with Video!
The gopro was on when the car shit the bed. It's hard to see, but pay attention to the crazy tach needle at the start.
http://youtu.be/cQusD2pYGCA
Now that i'm at home on a laptop and able to comprehend this... can you elaborate? If I had a 30A fuse, how exactly do I jump the wires? I'm a n00b at car electrical systems so bear with me here.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr brg
I'll be heading back to MW tomorrow to try a bunch of things and rope tow it home if none works. Anymore tricks are very welcome. Would it be worth it to buy a vatozone special fuel pump, anyone ever swapped out one on location before?? Is the vatozone special worth a damn?
And second, if anyone has an OE equivalent FP or a 94/95 CAS let me know, i'll meet you tomorrow morning with cash and ebay it later if I need to.
For now i'm going to drink more beer and pass out.
A fuse is good for this because the contacts in the harness-plug are the same width as a standard bus fuse.
http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/94sys.pdf
at looks EXACTLY like what my car did this spring when the CAS shit out on me. was intermittently a problem.....
Hmmm... tell me, did you still have spark when your car wouldn't crank??
I don't know.... when we tried to diagnose the problem, everything was working..... went for a drive... died. It was intermittently working, Track dog was who figured out the issue, as I couldn't
Thanks. Maybe ill give gary a call today. I don't even know if I can recreate the problem as the car ran fine yesterday while loading it up on the trailer.
FYI...I have a hi-flow fuel pump for sale, if you need one cheap. I'd even let you borrow it to get the car home, if that what it turns out to be...
Did it kick the CEL by any chance??
If it did it may give you a bit more information.
I tend to generate more engine heat when autocrossing than on the street, especially on a long MW course. It might only occur when you have enough heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggerachi
Thanks, I might take you up on the offer if mine tests bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeedracer
I borrowed a trailer and towed the car home yesterday. Next week is spring break so it'll probably wait till then to start messing with it. I'm going to try to borrow a spare CAS to play with as well.
My plan thus far is to try mr brg's diagnostics first to rule out the fuel pump, then run it for awhile to see if I can get it to die, and clean all the plugs with contact cleaner, clean the grounds (again), see if that helps, if not swap out the CAS and repeat.
I might enter into an Autox at Pennington since it's 5 minutes from my house, see if I can break the car there.
Is there any other way to test the CAS?
If Thor finds out you haven't attempted to pull any codes, he will be angry...