I'm looking for a threaded stud M8X25X10 and having no luck finding something like that at HD etc. Anyone have a hardware source for something like that? Prefer automotive strength materials.
Thanks
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I'm looking for a threaded stud M8X25X10 and having no luck finding something like that at HD etc. Anyone have a hardware source for something like that? Prefer automotive strength materials.
Thanks
Typically metric fasteners are listed in diameter x thread pitch x length. I'm not sure what an M8x25x10 stud is, but I'm guessing it's actually an M8x1.0x25mm, which is going to be harder to find. Standard thread pitch for an M8 is 1.25mm (M8x1.25).
In metric, you'll want a minimum Class 8.8 fastener for an automotive application. Class 10.9 offers approximately 50% more tensile strength, but can be more susceptible to fatigue failure. I'd opt for a Class 8.8
You might try McMasterCarr.com. What is this for?
Sorry it's M8X1.25X10mm. It's for attaching an intake manifold to the head.
Closest thing McMaster Carr has is a 12mm in stainless. Not sure I'd use that.
10mm is only 3/8" long. Are you sure about that?
Good point, will double check.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio-Active
If it's for his Lotus, then anything longer might be too heavy and bend the chassis with the weight. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio-Active
Elliots hardware in Plano MIGHT have it.
If it's for exhaust manifold, hit up Jegs or Summit.
I think the 10mm is the section that is threaded that goes into the head, I'll have to figure out what the overall length is
If you need an intake manifold stud, I have spares from my 1.6s. I'd be happy to throw a few in an envelope if needed. (or you can come all the way out here to pick them up)
You might try a retail place like Fastenal (there are stores in Plano, McKinney, and all over DFW). Sometimes Elliot's Hardware in Plano can be a great metric source.
But metric studs?... wow, I usually have to order any studs we use (for motor mounts and some other products we manufacture). McMaster Carr is super "easy" to order online from, but Metric & MultiStandard's prices (Irving) are always lower (no online ordering). Ditto Fastenal... their online ordering system stinks, and the pricing is terrible online compared to having a commercial account in their store. So I'd look at MMC online first, then call MMS.
Just getting the right stud length is tougher than it might seem. There are several DIN standards that are used to measure "unequal length studs", and it takes looking in books and pictures to figure it all out. There's usually an overall length (OAL) and a length of threaded stud on one side of the center shouldered portion. See what I mean below... That is an M10x80 stud, and in this DIN variation it has the same amount of threaded portion on both sides of a set width center section. It gets way more complicated when the two sides are different threaded lengths.
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/2..._tz7C4-M-1.jpg
We stock all manner of M8-1.25 bolts that we use on camber plates. Plated, bare black, 25, 30mm long, and some more. If you're near Allen/McKinney give us a ring and I'll toss you a handful of these to try, if it gets you out of a bind. I literally have thousands of these things in stock. :wink:
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-...85_N6RU5-M.jpg
Good luck,
Thanks Terry. Luckily I found someone that has a spare set they are holding and they will get all the measurements for me tonight. Total overall length, if it's threaded the entire length or has a break in the middle etc. I may take you up on your offer to swing by and pick up a few different sizes since I'm just down the road in Frisco to see what fits and then make a trip to one of the aforementioned hardware stores.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fair!
Thanks for the kind offer but I need them for a 2ZZ Toyota motor and it's an aftermarket piece anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
No problem. I thought I read a corrected size that was the same as the spare studs I have, but seems I just made that up. OopsQuote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Ok here's what I need. Mcmaster has something close. 45mm overall with the 10mm side going into the head (which is correct) and the side that uses the nut at 22mm (which is close). Not sure if the 5mm overall length and 2mm nut side length difference will be a problem or not.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...o/DSC02445.jpg
Have you tried Autozone or Napa?
Napa normally has the studs.
http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/1116418.jpg
Not yet, just got the pic with the specs. Will check it out at lunch.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
I think all thread would work fine.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#all-thread-rods/=ah2hwl
That's what I was thinking. Is there any reason that the threads stop and then start again? A fully threaded rod should just bottom out in the head and then as long as it's long enough and can fit a nut on the other end it should work right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert
Yep so you don't bottom out the bolt in the head and to keep you from crushing the gasket if ya don't know what your doing. ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
If you do use all-thread, put 2 nuts on the top to use for threading it in. That way you don't honk up the threads.
PS
I'd find the correct studs if it were me.
I figured I'd just measure 10mm from the bottom to the top and loctite it in at that depth. That may not be ideal though, will call around.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
The Napa in Saginaw didn't even have exhaust manifold studs for me. I was floored - it's not exactly an uncommon thing for a car person to request, and ours are one of the more popular sizes. I'd highly doubt they have an odd size like he's looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Point being, not all Napas are created equally :(
Ditto with my local Napa :-(Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
Use the low strength loctite, I think it's the blue, so you can remove it if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Any reason you couldn't just put a correct length bolt in?
My Napa Rocks! ::Banana::
Looks damn close! I didn't see a way to actually order it though or a matching nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Dang, I literally have hundreds of those exact length/style studs in stock here... in M10 diameter. :( That's a special order part, for sure. McMaster Carr to the rescue! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
You probably won't find them with any real plating, though. Black oxide is all you'll find, and it'll eventually rust just like the old one you pictured did. Not a big deal, though.
We order them in huge numbers in that common (crap) black oxide finish, them get them clear zinc plated, and then normalized (heat treating process). Total PITA, buts the only way to get these weird studs in a real finish.
You can but the studs hold the intake manifold so you can align it also the middle bolt is supposed to be a biatch to tighten.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert
Turns out the long end is too short. I did get a hold of a sales person at that company to see if they have the right part. This is turning to be a PITA. Checked Lowes, Autozone, O Riley's (had something close but no cigar), Elliots hardware in Plano, Fastenal, Grainger, Mcmaster and no luck so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Buy a longer stud, cut to size, clean up threads?
What have others done? I don't know what project you have going on (forget, and I'm too lazy to look back), but surely you're not the only one on the planet that has done what you're trying to do? (if so, props. and good luck)
I've actually gone down that route, and nothing is close enough. If the piece I found is long enough it's usually the unthreaded center section that makes it longer not the long threaded end. Most people that have done what I'm doing had these pieces as part of a kit. I'm starting to suspect they were specially machined for this kit only.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
A good trick for cleaning up the threads, is to put a nut on it before you cut the stud.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
Cut the stud, then clean up the end with a file, then remove the nut, the nut will clean up the threads when you remove it.
Ouch. All I can say is either contact the kit company or get ghetto and use some washers as spacers if you can (shouldn't be an issue if it's an intake manifold). Or get a bolt and a cheap open-ended wrench to grind down and make it work. I had to do that to get my FM manifold on and off - it was still tight, about 1/4 of a turn at a time, but infinitely better than trying to use a nonmodified wrench on one particular nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
I usually put the thread-chaser on the stud/bolt first, then back it off after I cut, but I've used a spare nut in a pinch too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert
You may try calling McMaster-Carr. I have gotten screws from them that were not listed on the website by calling and asking.
Lemme guess - supercharger kit for the Elise?Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
If you get desperate Fastenal will make fasteners to your specifications. Doubt it would be TCB, though.
Are you replacing the one in the pic? If you are I think you could just run a die down it and clean up the treads. It does not look that bad. I am sure a new one would be better but if you can't find one.
Unfortunately that one is not mine, someone on the board was nice enough to take a pic of a spare they had. I picked up the phone and called the places I listed above and no one has one. I may have found someone that has some spares in Houston though so thinking I'm gonna go that route. Last resort is just to get a threaded rod and ghetto fab something. I'm not in a huge rush anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert