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Speedometer cable in my '94 also give adible clues on how fast it is going. screek screek screek
Can you lube the cable or replacement the perfered method?
Since I have the dash on my workbench figure it is a good time to adress the screek screek screek noise.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ar4NWGG0rGY/TS...0/IMG_0139.JPG
You could probably get some kind of lube down in there, but the cable is like $55 delivered. Not that it's hard at all to remove/replace, but why take it out, lube, put it back in, and hope that it works instead of just replacing it once?
Lube might get you another year or so out of it, but your original cable lasted you, what, 16 years? Replace it and never worry about it again is what I say.
I lubed mine a year ago while the glue was drying on my gauge hood.I used the liquid / dry lubricant (don't know the name but it was the dry graphite in alcohol. Carries the graphite down the cable then dries out)
Seemed to work for a year or so, but the needle has been dancing again lately, on and off with the weather. I might not have gotten enough in there as I didn't pull the gauges out and it was a tight job. You may have better luck than I did.
Wow... This thread already has more great one liners than the average SNL episode.
I tried to lube mine with motorcycle cable lube. It didn't work very well. So, I installed a new cable and have had no more noise or jumpy needle.
Mine is jumpy....the colder it is, the jumpier it is. I'll wait for it to die and put a new one in.
Mine was jumpy at low speed for about a week then just quit on me. Been procrastinating getting a new one put on. Guess I should get around to doing that soon :)
Got one on order! Thanks for the help!
I never noticed it. How fast are you driving???
Found this on the interweb! Very helpful!
Free pearl snap shirt or foil crown with every order from Ebay!
Seriously? It takes me longer to remove/replace that stupid piece under the steering wheel than it does to remove/replace the cluster and everything to get to it. I guess it's a good idea to not remove the cluster, but it's much easier on your back than the way the video shows.
The problem is how fragile the clusters are. That alone can add $100 to the repair bill.
+1 ... Definitely wait for some warmer weather.Quote:
Originally Posted by Majik
I guess if someone feels the need to remove them with a hammer. Experience against experience, I have yet to break any removing them so I can't see how so many people claim to. I can't even say I'm all that gentle when I remove them either. But if I magically do start breaking some, that is a helpful video. Still think it'd take longer to do that than to just pull the cluster (and pulling it gives you a good reason to clean everything better than you can with it in the car).
LOL my original gauge hood turned to powder without anyone touching the gauge hood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
But I guess if my car sat in the garage in pieces waiting for someone to put it back together they the wear and tear would be a lot less. ;-)
BTW. My new gauge hood came off with no issues! ::Banana::
LOL Touche.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
My gauge hood is the original one from 1990, so it's old. It's been out more times than I care to count, so I'd say it's been stressed more than most others. When I was doing a bunch of temp gauge mods for people, I pulled some cluster hoods with over 200k miles on them and have yet to break one. Maybe it's an east coast thing? Dunno. I can honestly say that I've never even *seen* a broken gauge hood in person.
And it'll be back together soon enough. I tried to work on it yesterday, but it's damn cold. I really need to up the door insulation and heater/cooler on the priority list.
I replace my speedo cable a few weeks ago. Only paid $20 for a new oem cable. Got it from Dr. Bob in College Station a while back when he was selling off his spare parts and 92 Sunburst. I swear you could have built a whole car out of all the spares he had.
Soooo... I take it you're going to run out and by a crown and matching belt buckle, then start working on that handlebar moustache?
Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Already got two out of three! ::Banana::Quote:
Originally Posted by trickyrix
Fixed...
Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Ha! I watched that goof's video before I replaced my cable. I could not release the cable from the cluster as described. Unless you have small raccoon hands, it cannot be done that way.
I thought Rogue was King of the Miatas.... This guys an imposter...
I'm going to get Rogue to replace mine soon, but I'm starting to wonder if it's really the cable or if it's something in the workings of the cluster...
Regardless, it drowns out my music. It's ridiculously loud.
I spoke to soon about my $20 cable. It stopped working last night on the way home. I think it just came unplugged due to the cold weather.
Cold weather has nothing to do with it. If it wasn't plugged in fully it would have unplugged itself in the middle of summer. You have to be 100% sure that the clip clicks fully on the back of the cluster (another reason replacing from under the dash doesn't seem like a good idea to me). It will seat almost fully without clicking, so it can be a bit "tricky" to tell if it's good just by looking at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by motorollow
Depending on why you had to replace it, you might need to look at the gear on the end of the sensor/unit that goes into the trans (that the one end attaches to). I had to replace my cable because it melted when the FM downpipe failed. When it melted, it stopped the red gear on the trans piece from moving, so that stripped just enough to not work once I put a new cable in. Was fun to figure out.
Thanks UPS! ::Banana::
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ar4NWGG0rGY/TS...0/IMAG0002.jpg
Wow that really wasn't much fun to install but it is 99% in just waiting on the rest of my parts so I can finish this project.
Glad I watched the silly video because I don't think would have ever looked for that pesky metal clip on the firewall dead center under the coil packs. I also see what he is talking about on keeping the cable away from the EGR tube.
My speedometer started working again this morning, but is now bouncing. I guess I will be tearing into this weekend. I know I heard it click when I installed it just like the one I installed on the 1990.
So, which method did you use? Remove the whole instrument cluster or go from underneath?Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
I already had the gauges out so I could get to the airbag module. But it looks like you could pull this off with the gauges in place as shown by the guy in the tin foil hat video!Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanP1964
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ar4NWGG0rGY/TS...0/IMG_0139.JPG
So, POS - you put it all back together and test it yet?
He is still running the drill motor to roll back the mileage. :)
:clap: Well said, generaldefault :clap:
All done with the cable putting the airbag controller in it tonight!
http://www.filmbuffonline.com/FBOLNe...rrariCrash.jpg
You get a new controller?
Where was your squeak coming from? Mine is driving me nuts, and it sounds like it's coming directly from the cluster. I'm wondering if I should look into that before buying a cable... even though I've tried all kinds of lube already.
Got a rebuilt unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm
Mine sounded like it was the entire freaking dash! Way worse when it was cold. Just took it for a test drive no noise whatsoever and the needle doesn't shake at all!Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMonkey
New Cable FTW! ::Banana::
Nice... looks like that's probably my issue then. Thanks :D